10-02-24 Art & Architecture in West Texas - Marfa and Prada

TEXAS REALLY IS A WHOLE 'NOTHER COUNTRY

They say you can't get there from here. But when you finally get there, it is well worth the trip. A good friend from Tallahassee, who lived in Austin for several years, says Texas really is like living in a different country. After our visit several years ago, I know what she means. Everyone knows about the cultural and music scene in Austin or the big city glitz of Dallas, but few have experienced the sometimes-surreal experience of West Texas and the art enclave of Marfa, Texas. In addition, the boutique destination hotel/resort Cibilo Creek Ranch is a mere thirty minutes south in the high desert country of west Texas. You'll hear about that amazing place next week.

After landing in El Paso, we knew we were in a "different" country when the car rental agent made me sign a document stating that I would not take the rental car into Mexico and then gave me a stern lecture on what would happen if I violated that agreement. We grabbed some lunch and headed down I-10 for the three-hour drive to the small town of Marfa, Texas where we planned to stay for a couple of nights before our final destination at Cibilo Creek Ranch.

Leaving I-10 behind for US 90, we headed further into the Texas desert. One of the great joys of travel, especially road trips, is the serendipitous occurrence of the unexpected. Imagine our delight when we came upon Prada Marfa, a permanent architectural art installation designed to resemble a Prada store. Complete with high design shoes and handbags, this small building/sculpture, literally in the middle of nowhere, served as an iconic marker of more to come thirty miles down the road. Just click on the highlighted Prada Marfa above to see a short video.

The Hotel Paisano, which can be had for about $200 a night, housed the cast and crew of the classic 1956 film Giant, starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean, was the perfect place to rest up for our venture into the world of Marfa. Opened in 1930, this restored Spanish Revival gem captures an earlier time of a Texas community that was the center of the cattle business and social life of West Texas. With exquisitely detailed interiors, a stunning courtyard, open air balconies and an indoor swimming pool, it is the perfect base to enjoy the many bounties of this cool little out of the way place. The other hotel worthy of note is the Thunderbird. A minimalist renovation of a classic 50's motor hotel, it is another option for those that want to enjoy a different design approach for sleeping while in Marfa.

New York has MOMA, LA has The Getty and Paris The Louvre. The Chinati Foundation is Marfa's answer to the question: What in the world is there to do in Marfa, Texas? Established by visionary artist Donald Judd, the foundation officially opened to the public in 1986. Comprised of various buildings at locations in and around Marfa, the permanent and temporary collections are both provocative and powerful. Due to physical limitations, large works of art and sculpture are often compromised in museums. None of those limitations are in evidence here. Large outdoor sculptures, as well as works by Judd and other artists, are housed in converted artillery sheds, older utilitarian buildings, houses and smaller galleries downtown, allowing the viewer to see the work as the artist originally intended. So, plan on spending the day in this utterly fascinating world where cow town meets modern art in one of the most unique environments you will ever experience.

Just like the art and architecture, Marfa offers unique eating choices. For dinner, we enjoyed outstanding Italian, with a Texas twist, at the intimate Maiya's, which, unfortunately has closed. With stark, minimalist interiors of white walls, concrete bar tops and bright red light fixtures, it proved the perfect place for dining after a busy day of Marfa culture. 

After dinner, we drove out of town to view the Marfa Lights. The paranormal lights, visible from a viewing station on US 67 just outside of Marfa. After many studies by paranormal experts and scientists the mysterious lights have yet to be adequately explained. As we headed back to The Paisano, thinking about the day's events - the Prada store/sculpture, the minimalist art in sheds and fields in this little corner of west Texas and unexplained night lights - I started to see and hear Rod Serling everywhere!!

After a very peaceful sleep in your room overlooking the pool, you can start the day at any one of the many great intimate restaurants in Marfa. Enjoy the perfect start for more gallery hopping and then on to Cibilo. As we headed out of Marfa to our final destination at Cibilo, we knew we had found one of those places that makes you realize that taking the road less traveled - You will always be better for it.

D.L.Stafford

thenomadARCHITECT

"Marfa Texas may be the Center of The Universe" - Donald Judd

This week's video features a great Texas Troubadour - the multi award winning Lyle Lovett and His Large Band - the perfect way to celebrate Texas with a classic Texas Swing tune - That's Right You're Not From Texas.