DO YOU HAVE YOUR BUCKET LISTS READY MY FELLOW VAGABONDS?

My fellow travelers, Christmas is just around the corner. If you don't have your Bucket List of places you have always dreamed of going with your significant other, your current lover, your  family, etc. etc. etc., then you best get busy. Just as Christmas is a mere five-six weeks away. April and May will be here before you can say andiamo (let's go). April-May and September-October are the best times of year to travel, particularly in Europe. Fewer crowds, good temps and cheaper rates.

Travel planning requires a lot of research and time to get it right, unless you have a lot of money and you're lazy. I have an ongoing discussion with some close family members about cruises. If you want to get on a boat with 3,000 of your closest friends, sleep in a room designed for Wizard of Oz extras, land in a port and go shopping for chachi that you could probably get at Walmart or in Gatlinburg, then get on. I must say, in all honesty, I have never been on a cruise. However, I have spent many hours studying that method of travel and every single time I say absolutely NO!!!

My preference has always been to go where Vagabond Souls must go to see the beautiful, the real and the unknown places. Places I have never been or places I fell in love with before and have a need to see them again. And, of course, critical to the success of any travel plan is finding those places to relax and lay your weary head after you've gotten lost numerous times. Taking the road less traveled is always the best policy, even with numerous U-turns. As one anonymous traveler said - Travel is the joy of never actually getting there. That was paraphrased, but you get the point.. This blog will always be about helping you, my fearless reader, figure out where to sleep, where to eat and what to see in your Vagabond searching for meaning. Really, when you get down to it, that's what travel is. It's not just about having a good trip. It's also about seeing different cultures and allowing those cultures, their traditions and their people to change your thinking about the world and life.

So, I thought it would be a good idea to start this little RANDOM BUCKET LIST thing with some places I, along with my wife and soul mate, Susie, and my family have been in the good old USA and across the pond.

FIRST UP - FRANCE
Let's start with the joys, the food, the people and the amazing beauty of the most visited country in the world - France. I must say right up front, do NOT believe all those Ugly Americans that say Paris is a horrible place and Parisians hate Americans. We found Paris, its museums, its architecture and its people to be utterly amazing.

Most travelers to France focus on the great city of Paris. With its history, its museums, its architecture, ancient and modern, its food and its people, it is a city that must be experienced. I would recommend at least three days and nights just to see the big things like the Eiffel Tower, which was built for the 1889 World's Fair, and was supposed to be torn down after the exposition. It was viewed as the ugliest building in Paris when built, but, became the symbol of this great city.

Other places to see in Paris will allow you to see some of the greatest and most famous artwork ever created. First up - The Louvre. The museum has one of the most priceless paintings by the master Leonardo da Vinci - The Mona Lisa. This painting is considered to be one of the most valuable paintings ever created by the renown Leonardo. And, as you would expect, it has had an existence of controversy and intrigue. Of  course the Louvre has so many great works of art you could spend many days there and never take it all in.

There are many museums to see in this amazing city of great architecture and art. I would highly recommend The Centre Pompidou. Spending a day in the Pompidou, which displays mostly modern works, will be a completely pleasurable experience.

We flew into Charles De Gaulle Airport, the second busiest airport in Europe, and, in my humble opinion, the most poorly designed and confusing. But, once you're out of the maze of the airport, the beauty of Paris will unfold. It is truly an amazing city. Unlike other big cities, it does not have tall buildings in its center, which makes it a unique place to walk or stop at a sidewalk cafe for coffee or a light snack. The romance of this great city is around every corner. We have a vivid memory of going for a walk after an early evening meal, turning a corner and seeing the brilliantly lighted Eiffel before us - Amazing! Once you walk the famed Champs Elysees and see its monumental Arc de Triumphe you will get some  idea of the artistic influence of this great city.

There are hundreds of small boutique hotels to choose from all over Paris. We stayed at the Hotel Mayet within easy walking distance of The Eiffel Tower and many other attractions. While there, we had the pleasure of eating next door at a small restaurant and sat next to an American pilot who lives in Paris. His take on Paris was fascinating and his love of this great city was evident. This particular hotel only has twenty four rooms. Perfect size for this vagabond. The staff was always friendly and helpful in their recommendations on how to get around and the best restaurants. And, best of all, you can get a room for between 125-180 euro per night. 

That's my take on Paris. If you have never been, add it to your Bucket List today and make your reservations soon. Just to get yourself motivated to visit this fabulous world class city, enjoy an excellent video on the top ten things to do in Paris. Juste Aller! And of course, the rest of France and the always beautiful region of Provence must be experienced as well. In future posts, I will bring you some thoughts on the rest of this magnificent country.

And one last thing, it's only eleven days until December 1, the beginning of this year's Top 25 2019 Christmas Countdown. I have searched high and low to find many new tunes for your enjoyment. In the meantime, GET BUSY - PARIS IS WAITING!!

Bon Voyage!

D.L.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

GRANADA, GAR ANAT & ALHAMBRA - OTRO CUBO LISTER (ANOTHER BUCKET LISTER) FOR SURE

Even Car Rentals Are Muy Barato (Very Cheap) In The Land Of Quixote

Because of our plans to venture away from metropolitan areas, we rented a sweet little Fiat 500 L for five days for a measly $34.00 per day, from Hertz no less, and headed for Granada. Spain, on the road, is a beautiful country. And the small enclave of Granada is the perfect place to walk and enjoy the sites and sounds of a beautiful town with a world class UNESCO  World Heritage Site - Alhambra. Our small, boutique 4-star hotel, Gar Anat Hotel Boutique, has only fifteen rooms and is located in the center of the small town, so you can walk everywhere to restaurants and other cool places to, see.

 

Due to our plans for the remainder of our trip, we broke our Nomad Rule (minimum three nights) and stayed only one night at this small, intimate hotel. The low price of $170.00 included a beautifully appointed room, complimentary wine, snacks and breakfast. Which, as you can see in the photograph, is served in a stone vaulted room that combines ancient and modern to perfection. All good! This small higher end hotel, at the price it charges, further supports this Vagabond's advice to go to Spain to see some of the best designed places in Europe for a song, compared to the rest of Europe.

The Alhambra Is A Reminder of Past Magnificence in Architecture

This unbelievable palace and center of the Moorish World for two centuries is a must see for any Nomad. Its history of design and construction is beyond the scope of this blog. Suffice to say, it is long and complicated. For more information on the history of this sprawling group of buildings just click here and here. To get you a little more interested in this magnificent work of architecture, enjoy a short presentation by the Traveler In Chief Rick Steves:
 

Due to its size and complexity, I highly recommend that you book a tour with one of the local tour companies. We used VIATOR, which is affiliated with Trip Advisor. Our guide/docent was full of great information about the details of this magnificent structure. Another recommendation is to plan your visit to be an all day trek.

Next Up: We head to the country to one of the coolest places I-Escape presents for Nomads to lay their heads while enjoying the countryside, great food and simple relaxation.

Me Encanta Este Pais (I Love This Country)

d.l.stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

P.S. - And for your continued enjoyment of randomly found great music, please enjoy an ACL performance by one of the most unique folk/rock bands performing today as The Avett Brothers render a fresh take on a very old gospel song:
 

RANDON VAGABOND ALERT - THIS IS ABSOLUTELY NUTS!!

OK - If you are a budget conscious vagabond and long to travel to faraway lands in Europe AND you want to throw in a side trip to Iceland for a few days, but you can't bring yourself to pull that trigger because the flights to Paris or Barcelona or Milan or anywhere else across the pond are just too steep, then The Nomad Architect has something you need to see. I mean this deal is shamadelicious, bona fide crazy and simply unbelievable. But I have checked it out and it is the real deal. If you are willing to be flexible, you can have a great trip with a side adventure in one of the most enchanting places in the northern hemisphere. Read on fellow vagabonds. This deal can scratch your wanderlust itch for a song.

WOW and Then Some!!!!!

 

We will start this little adventure with one simple word - WOW. That's right, WOW Airlines, based in Iceland, is the highly rated newest member of the low cost airline market and they have recently started flights from select US airports (Boston, New York, DC, etc.) to numerous European destinations (Paris, Barcelona, Amsterdam, etc.). Much like Ryan Air of the UK, they do charge for everything, but, if you're smart, you can get to Paris and back for under $450, including one carry on and one checked bag or $350 with only one carry on. And even if you have to get to one of the airports  WOW flies from, you can still do this on the cheap, compared to normal flights with  Delta or other major carriers. But the good news doesn't end there. As part of their low price offers, you can fly to Reykjavik, stay a few days and wander around the beautiful small country of Iceland (It only has 330,000 plus residents), then catch your flight to Paris or some other destination and then fly back to your US destination. It's almost like a two-fer.

The only catch with these ridiculous fares is the necessity to be smart AND flexible to get the lowest price or travel with one change of clothes in your single carry on and stay where washers and dryers are available. Don't laugh, I just read an article by a fearless traveler who spent a year traveling in Eurasia with one carry on bag. To assist my fellow vagabonds with this process and to help you get the lowest price, just follow this link - WOW Stopover In Iceland and additional details with this link - How Does the WOW Stopover Work?.

You Gotta Find A Place Right?

Just because I CARE and I want my readers to have the best of the best, at reasonable prices- here  are some links to cool places to stay in Iceland depending on your budget. And, of course, you can utilize these same sites for your stay in Europe.

I-Escape. I have personally used this great bundler for high design places many times. This link lists numerous places in Iceland that will give you a comfy place to lay your head and enjoy this small, eco-centric country from high to low price.

AIRBNB. I just stayed a week in yet another killer place from AIRBNB in Sonoma and for a lot less than I would have paid in a major hotel. They have 300 plus rentals in Iceland from very cheap to very expensive.

TABLET. Since you will save so much on your flights, you may want to check out TABLET HOTELS for a more expensive place to rest your weary bones after hiking the hinterland all day.

So there you have it. If you have those wanderlust blues and need a fix for less money, WOW has the plan for you to enjoy some serious away time on the cheap. And don't postpone too long - the deal may go away and it starts getting pretty cold in November in The Land of Fire & Ice.

Góða Ferð My Fellow Vagabonds,

D.L. Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

 

 

CHRISTMAS IN JULY - HELLO NEW YAWK CITY - BOOYAH! - REPOST

DANCE OF THE SUGAR PLUMS, GREAT ART & RIDICULOUS FOOD IN THE BIG APPLE

OK - In the interest of pure, unedited honesty - this is a repost. It's not too early to plan your travel future and planning a trip to NYC during Christmas should start about now. So, I thought you might benefit from reading about our experiences in what many consider to be America's greatest urban center. Whether you agree with that is a discussion for another time and another place. I know, I know - You probably don't really want to read about the bright lights of NYC at Christmas time right in the middle of our currently long hot summer. But I have to correct a most egregious dereliction of duty on the part of this wandering vagabond heart. I left out all the cool stuff and my thoughts on all things great and small in the city that never sleeps - not to mention a killer hotel right off Times Square. I got way too busy dealing with all things holiday- kids, the countdown, presents, shopping (ugh!) - and we bought a house - SO, I have posted nil in months.

Once again, just like last year, I thought today's post would give at  least a virtual respite from that famous Tallahassee heat and humidity. As a close friend and musical mentor who moved to Arizona said upon returning for a short visit - "I knew I was in Tallahassee when I got off the plane and all the air was sucked out of my body". That's what happens when you live in a place that averages about 20-30 percent  humidity. Serves him right for leaving God's Country. My apologies to those vagabonds who happen to live in more hospitable summer climes. So this week's post will enter into the official blogosphere record a trip that has been on my bride's Bucket List since we started life together 42 years ago next month - Christmas in New York City - Check!

 

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION - WHERE YOU SLEEP MATTERS

 

Making a hotel reservation in New York, can be a daunting task. New York may, in fact, have more hotels per square foot than any city on the planet. According to the internet - and you know its true if it's on the internet - 54 million wandering souls visit this city every year. When you toss in the roughly 8 million plus permanent residents, well it's a busy place.


Therefore, you want to stay as close to the action as possible, lest a Nomad spend too much time and too much money getting from place to place, particularly when you factor in relatively long waits for taxis - and it's Christmas!

 

After researching dozens of hotels in NYC, we settled on a very small hip place just two blocks off Times Square - ROW NYC. This boutique hotel has everything one needs to rest up from a day of sight seeing or a night on the town. The design motif is pure urban minimalist from the understated lobby-bar-social meeting place to the large graphics in the rooms. Typical for New York, the rooms are not huge, but plenty big for two bleary eyed vagabonds. I recommend a Superior City View Room. It's about the same price as a regular room and you get glimpses of the city that absolutely, positively never sleeps. Our room had a killer view up the 8th Avenue canyon. Concierge Service was very good and helpful with directions, restaurant recommendations/reservations, etc.. One helpful point here - Make your reservation at least two months before your trip and check back often as your departure approaches. We got a reduced rate about a week before our trip via an email offer from the hotel. At Christmas no less- go figure!

 

 

OMG "FILL IN ANYONE'S NAME HERE" - YOU WON'T BELIEVE THE FOOD

Like New Orleans, Chicago, Austin, Paris and all of Italy, New York City has great food that will warm the cockles of every foodie vagabond's heart. American - Fusion - Italian - Burgers - Cheap - Expensive - As they say in my neck of the woods - If you cain't find good food in New Yawk, you ain't lookin'. There are two particular restaurants that IMHO every temporary Manhattanite must check out. First, for a superb Italian feast, the quaint bistro Amarone Ristorante will transport you to that little place you always want to be when you enjoy a fine meal with the one you love. This place just happens to be in the heart of the Theatre District, but you will think you are on a side alley in Montepulciano. The place is simple with unadorned brick walls and classic white table cloths. The food is real and superb. The wine, all Italian of course, is also outstanding. And all the waiters may be from Brooklyn, but they sounded Italian to me. The restaurant's tag line on their web site says:

Amarone Ristorante is a secret gem in Hell's Kitchen. This authentic Italian gem offers amazing eats that reflect the owners' Italian background.

Again, from my neck of the woods - It ain't braggin' if you can back it up. Amarone backs it up.

ATTENTION ALL VEGANS - DO NOT READ THIS!

Carnivores, on the other hand, listen up. Upon the recommendation of an in-law, who shall remain nameless to protect her from the onslaught of Texts, Tweets, Instagrams and Facebook Trolls she would no doubt receive from the red meat hating food police, castigating her for recommending a restaurant that prides itself on serving the finest slain bovine on the planet, we made reservations at one of the most unique restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of eating in - Quality Meats. This interesting multi-level eatery, part of an exclusive group of  restaurants in New York and Miami, proves that quality really has no substitute. Steaks with every trimming you could ever want paired with a great wine recommended by the excellent wait staff came together like Sinatra and "New York, New York"  . I'm spreadin' the news - Quality Meats must be added to every  NYC loving foodie's Bucket List. And kudos to my unnamed in-law. You did good girl.

 

WHO LOVES YOU PRETTY BABY!

The Great White Way is one of America's great cultural treasures, and after over 1,400 performances,The Jersey Boys has become one of the hottest tickets on Broadway. With minimal set pieces, this drama/musical trip about one of America's greatest pop-rock groups, The Jersey Boys captures the true story and essence of the 100 million record selling super group. We so enjoyed the story about this often troubled group  with the unique high falsetto front man, Frankie Valli. The stripped down performance in the intimate August Wilson Theatre makes the musical presentation of some of the greatest pop songs ever recorded something to remember. And they sang virtually every hit this Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inducted group ever recorded - Sherry - Big Girls Don't Cry - Rag Doll - ad infinitum. The actor/singer Joseph Leo Bwarie absolutely killed the Frankie Valli role with his voice and the nuance of this complex icon and his even more complex relationship with the other members of The Four Seasons. If you are a child of the sixties, ya gotta go! And drag your kids along so they can see and hear what real talent looks and sounds like.

 

THE NUTCRACKER, THE ROCKETTES, A BIG TREE & MATISSE AT MOMA - WOW!!

 

One of the great joys of visiting a city like New York is the opportunity to see the best of the best. Premiering on February 2, 1954, the George Balanchine Nutcracker Ballet is something that every person, young or old, should see. The music of Tchaikovsky, combined with the genius of Balanchine and the talents of some 90 world class dancers, presents all that is magical about the vision of Christmas. In  a world that is growing increasingly harder to understand, this annual Christmas extravaganza brings all who see it closer to the joy and beauty of our greatest holiday tradition.

 

And then we have those girls with legs that seemingly go on forever - The Rockettes. With over eighty dancers, all the same height, this dance troupe has been performing their dazzling choreography for over eighty years in one of the most iconic performance halls in America - Radio City Music Hall. Put simply, The Rockettes are a true red, white and blue blast of pure entertainment presenting Christmas entertainment at its best. And they look pretty good doing it.

And there, right in the middle of Manhattan - The giant tree in Rockefeller Center sets the mood for any Christmas visit to The Big Apple. It's very big, it's very bright and it will make you feel like Christmas. If, upon viewing this magnificent sentinel of light, you don't feel like celebrating all that Christmas means - sorry, that's on you.

 

New York is one of those places that forces any Wandering Nomad to make sometimes hard choices on what and what not to see and do. However, one experience any self respecting vagabond cannot forgo on any visit to NYC is an afternoon wandering among the great works of art that adorn the walls of  The Museum of Modern Art (MOMA). World class paintings, sculpture and other objects de arte abound in this museum that has been at the cutting edge of modern art since 1929. The special exhibit - Matisse: The Cutouts - must be seen up close and personal to grasp the impact of one of modern art's most compelling and inventive artists.

FINALLY - THE WORLD TRADE CENTER - BE PREPARED!

The horrific events of 911 are respectfully remembered in film, architecture and artifacts at The 911 Memorial and Museum. You simply cannot visit this amazing memorial without understanding how ordinary Americans can  do extraordinary things when circumstances demand it and the unflinching spirit of America in the face of incomprehensible horror. The  gravity of the devastation that took place on this iconic parcel of real estate is apparent as you enter the main plaza surrounding the black sculptural voids of the original Twin Towers with a continuous black granite viewing rail featuring the embossed names of some 3,000 innocent victims who died in this soul shattering, murderous attack perpetrated by people who redefine evil of the first order. Upon entering the museum, you are first given the opportunity to view a film with dozens of world leaders, firemen, police and other ordinary Americans who had some connection with the only attack on our homeland by a foreign entity. The museum itself, which descends to the lowest foundations of the original World Trade Center subtly features a simple modern design motif by the architectural-design team lead by  David Brody Bond juxtaposed against remaining foundations, steel columns and artifacts that render the experience not so much like a museum but more like a continuous visual and emotional journey through tragedy that ultimately gives way to the life affirming power of the human spirit.

Then you see the future rising out of the ash heap from the main level of the museum as the New One World Trade Center, at a height of 1776 feet, comes into view and you hear yourself believing once again - America is still the most brilliant idea ever birthed in the mind of human kind. It is an experiment that will prevail  even in the most adverse of circumstances. As Thomas Jefferson said in 1787:

The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots & tyrants. It is it’s natural manure.

As we were leaving this place, which so eloquently memorializes the somber events of that tragic day in our history, I looked up to see the gleaming new tower of the New World Trade Center and I thought - God Bless America Indeed.



Thank You New York & America - Still The Land of The Free

d.l.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MADRID - BIENVENIDA TO THE SECOND COOLEST CAPITAL CITY IN EUROPE

IT'S NOT PARIS BUT MAKE NO MISTAKE MIS COMPAÑEROS VAGABUNDOS - MADRID HAS GOT IT GOIN' ON

That's right. Madrid has everything a Nomad full of intense wanderlust needs. Great food, great architecture and Picasso's Guernica. That's enough to put a town on the A List. But Madrid has so much more. As we approached this thoroughly modern metropolis with a history that goes back to at least the ninth century, we became instant romantics in search of all the things we had read about this place of insatiable cultural  diversity and a vibrant populace to go with it.

 

 

And where better to start our almost month long sojourn in the land of Iberia than Magicall Madrid? As one perceptive writer commented to comedian & radio personality Dennis Miller recently - Miller, you gotta go to Spain. All they do day and night is eat and drink. Saludos Vagabundos!

Just Gimme That One Shot Prado 23 - Por Favor

After a little hunting up a narrow street off the main drag,  the taxi stopped in front of our base of operations for three days in Madrid - The One Shot 23 Prado. Through a simple glass door entry into a lobby with stark white walls & modern paintings and sculpture everywhere, and a couple of nice English speaking conserjes jovenes, we were in. It was official, we had arrived in Madrid. Our room continued the minimalist grammar - white walls, smart furniture, a bathroom with a huge rain shower, comfy bed, pickle stained wood plank floors and a large mirror on the wall that was actually a tv. We almost never watch tv while traveling. I mean what is the point of watching a game show in a language you may have studied for six months but have absolutely no chance of actually understanding? However, the subtle design touch with a tv that actually looked like a mirror was a very hip detail in this architect's opinion.

 

The hotel designer adroitly inserted minimalist spaces, surfaces, furniture, etc. into a vintage building of undeterminable age. Those crazy creative Europeans do this with such ease.  And to make the thing go perfect, our room had a large balcony with chairs and a table for a little morning coffee or snack to enjoy the sounds of the street and some fresh air. And the staff, always helpful and knowledgeable about who, what and where were always at the ready with maps and instructions.

 

And one last thing about the One Shot for Gen Xers  and Millennials - FREE WIFI !! - OMG, U have 2 stay here!!!!!!!

 

And Where To Eat? or should I ask - Donde Comer?

 

The area around the One Shot, Paseo del Prado, is a great area to see many of the things that make Madrid such a great city. Museums, parks, transportation are all easily accessible on foot. In addition, the area is loaded with great restaurants. Because we had eaten the usual composting trash they served on our nine hour Delta bus flight, we were somewhat satiated but very tired. So our plan was to get some shut eye before venturing out for the evening.

 

IMHO - There is nothing more important than getting some quality nap time if you arrive in Europe in the AM after a 9-10 hour flight. Some say you should "keep going". I am not of that school. Your biological clock is demanding that you treat your temple with some respect. That means sleep fellow nomads. So go to bed already!

 

And Wake Up About 8 PM for some Serious Tapas - Oh Mi!

 

That's right. Spaniards just don't bother doing too much in the afternoon - early or late, so we got up around eight, jumped in that massive rain shower with pressure to die for, combed and made ourselves up and took off for our first real experience enjoying one of the many things España has contributed to civilized culture - TAPAS. Hola LA MUCCA DE PRADO! This very busy tapas restaurant/bar had been recommended by the one of the young ladies at the front desk and it did not disappoint. Great food and great service. Flying somewhat blind, we ordered a few items and some wine and began our official culinary trip in the land of Jamón Ibérico and Tempranillo.

 

Oxford Dictionary defines Tapas as small Spanish savory dishes, typically served with drinks at a bar. Savory - sí, drinks - sí, small - well not really! Tapas Rule No. 1 - Go slow. Cheese, sausage, beef, veggies - you name it - they can serve it up in quantities that will leave you with a need for more nap time. Safe to say - the Spanish have very much perfected the art of eating and drinking.

 

After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll back to our little piece of minimalist diseño and its very comfortable bed and nodded off with dreams of the coming days in the land of La Mancha.

Still to come in Magical Madrid - Museums, Windmills and More Tapas!

D.L.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

Spanish Lesson of The Week - In place of a quip or other witty euphemism, this series will contain a weekly thought, point or admonishment about travel in Spain and other countries, including the good ole USA.

This Week's Lesson - Always follow the two day rule when traveling to Europe. Unless you are a hyper, super energetic traveler, which makes you completely annoying or just too young, you should allow yourself two full days to "get in the flow" of life in your new environs. Jet lag, learning the ways of the place you are in and the practical things you need to deal with (ATM's, different food, language, etc.) require some serious R & R to get your biorhythms properly aligned. So, like I said earlier - Go to bed already!

Video Artist of The Week - Chic Corea - One of the fathers of jazz fusion, this 22 time Grammy winner commands the keys with creativity and skill.

 

 

 

LIVIN' LARGE IN TEXAS PART II

FOUR DAYS IN HIPSTERVILLE - JUST IGNORE THE GUY WITH ALL THE "KIDS" IN THE MINIVAN

That's right, a minivan! When I pulled up to the Marriot in Dallas to pick up "the kids", my son - the first one out the door - exclaimed in his best high pitched Leave It To Beaver voice - HI! DAD!! Then the rest of the crew piled in and discussed, ad nauseam, our mode of transportation for our days in Big D and our subsequent trip south to the tattoo capital of the world, Austin. You know how kids are. Wow dad, what a cool ride said the daughter snarkily. Was this an upgrade? asked the daughter-in-law laughingly. Well, at least we won't get a ticket for speeding said the mom admonishingly. And on and on. However, no one complained about having their very own seat. We just put the 5'2" daughter-in-law, the one who queried me about the upgrade, in the little seat in the back and all was very cool. Perfect ride I say.

 

As we made our way south on Interstate 35 from Big D to Austin, I was happy as a tipped cow to have all of the family headed for some good times in the Live Music Capital Of The World. After hours of searching dozens of web sites, I found a place  that would sleep five  just off South Congress Avenue (SOCO), which is THE happening area in Austin. A 1926 bungalow had been repurposed with some serious funk to create a very cool landing spot for the four days/three nights we were in the place that boasts many favorite offspring, including Willie Nelson, Stevie Ray Vaughn and The Fabulous Thunderbirds.

Complete with old doors,  corrugated tin ceilings and a very funky paint job, in and out, The Red Bungalow proved to be a real find. It had all the basics, including a nice outdoor patio for socializing with your morning coffee and it was within easy walking distance of the clubs, restaurants, museums and ridiculously high priced boutiques of every ilk on South Congress Avenue. The bathrooms could have been a bit bigger and the furniture was somewhat sparse, but, other than that, it was good quality space for our familial coalition of five vagabonds in search of a happening in a city where residents boastfully proclaim - KEEP AUSTIN WEIRD! And, based on the sights and sounds of this unique town, residents and nomads alike nurture that admonishment 24-7.

BAT**** CRAZY IS NOT JUST ANOTHER ADJECTIVE IN AUSTIN

That's right, locals and visitors alike go crazy over bats in this town. Observing the short migration of 1.5 million bats every night at dusk is truly an unforgettable experience. According to local legend, when the bridge was renovated in 1980, the bats found the cracks and crevices built into the bridge a perfect place to call home. Presto! Lots and lots and lots of bats call The South Congress Avenue Bridge over Lady Bird Lake home.     Although in residence as early as March, the best time to witness this man assisted natural phenomenon is in August, which is when we were there. Perfect planning by you know who. They apparently winter in Mexico. I am sure they are included in the latest version of The Dream Act - just kidding.

I also highly recommend paying ten bucks for an open top boat for viewing from the lake. You don't have to fight the crowds on the bridge and the little lady that captained our launch was very knowledgeable about the bats and the Austin skyline. And no need to worry about bugs, since the bats eat 10,000 to 30,00 pounds of insects on their nightly flight. Watching the sky turn black with over a million bats, as they take to the countryside, is a great way to enjoy an early evening with family and friends. And don't forget to bring along a cheap merlot or pinot and some Dixie cups. Good time, indeed.

AUSTIN LOVES TATTOOS, GREAT MUSIC AND KILLER FOOD

Apparently tattoos   generate   some  form of street cred in ultra hip Austin. Every size, color, style and theme can be found on bodies, ankle to neck, along with mega piercings of every lip, nose and ear. I cannot attest to other parts unseen. The GEN Y generation apparently has an almost obsessive need to express their individuality with tattoos. One day, in a galaxy far far away, when the inevitable drooping, dropping and sagging sets in with age, the old Millennials will lament the foibles of their youth. As a friend once noticed about a lady friend who had put on a few pounds - It used to be a butterfly on that cheek, but now it's a California condor. Austin locals, from pizza joint waiters to hotel concierges, wear their body art with intense pride. And that attitude is pervasive all up and down SOCO.

If you are a music lover, then Austin is, indeed, where you need to be. Specifically, live music is around every corner and in every venue from barbecue joints to the famed Austin City Limits. Unfortunately ACL had no performances while we were there. In addition, I have read that you need a special dispensation from the Pope to score tickets or be best buds with Willie Nelson. One very cool place we went to enjoy barbecue and some good live R&B was Salt Lick Barbecue. You can also pick up some Texas wine at Salt Lick Cellars next door. Our friend for life, Paula, a transplanted  Floridian took us to this great little spread in Texas Hill Country. It's nice to know we have a friend in one of the coolest town's in America who knows their way around the place.  It's a must visit for hungry vagabonds where great food and music can be had with a view. And having a true Austinite show you around doesn't hurt.

Tex-Mex, Fried Chicken, All of The Above - you name it - is available in the culinary haunts in every corner of this great city of just under a million. It may be left of center politically, but Austin is pure right all the time when it comes to food. Whether it's Lucy's Fried Chicken, which manages to turn comfort food into something sexy or Torchy's Tacos for serious Mexican with that undeniable Texas Touch and bottled cokes. Oh yeah baby!

I would be remiss, as an architect and nomad, if I did not mention one place to sleep in Austin that has been on my Vagabond radar for years. Hotel San Hose' is a repurposed, updated motel right on South Congress. Unfortunately, the place was booked and it is pretty pricey. However, I did take the time to walk its zen like environs and public areas. With its minimalist aesthetic and blend of natural materials laid over the bones of an old motor inn, it seems to live up to its billing. Very retro eco. So, when in Austin, its worth checking out.

Austin should be on every Nomad's list of places to see before you die. It is as All American in a Texas style kind of way as you will find. Like Lyle Lovett says in the song of the same name "That's right - your not from Texas, but, Texas wants you anyway". As we boarded the plain for good old Tallahassee, that song kept playing in my head. I am not from Texas but every time I go, I feel like maybe they do want me. With the right jeans and the right hat, who knows?

Head Em' Up Move 'Em Out!

D.L.Stafford

thenomadARCHITECT

Travel Quote of The Week - "Some folks look at me and see a certain swagger, which in Texas is called walking" - George W. Bush

Video Artist of The Week - Norah Jones & The Little Willies - Born in Brooklyn, raised  in Texas, Norah Jones is the daughter of concert promoter Sue Jones and Ravi Shankar, master sitar player (Yes - The guy that taught Beatle George Harrison). The multi-award winning artist formed an ad hoc group of players and singers - The Little Willies - who turn out some amazing music that you will NEVER hear on the radio. One of the most compelling recordings by this group is a little ditty called "Lou Reed" with Norah Jones on piano & vocals, Richard Julian on vocals, Jim Capilongo on guitar, Lee Alexander on bass and Dan Rieser on drums. Just picture it - Mr. Velvet Underground tipping a bovine. Now that's something to ponder!

 

BIG D - IT AIN'T BRAGGIN' IF YOU CAN BACK IT UP - LIVIN' LARGE IN TEXAS PART ONE

 

And Dallas,Texas can back it up. That's right, the movers and the shakers in Dallas put their money where their mouth is. From the big city swank of the Omni to the low key elegant swagger of the Mansion At Turtle Creek, Big D gets an A+ in every category important to travelers, revelers, nomads and vagabonds, young and old. Sleeping? Take your pick from the big city hotels to the smaller places down the road a piece. Architecturally, its not Chicago or New York, but it's friendlier and you don't have a misguided politico/Bloomberg type trying to stop you from buying a big gulp. And, as you might expect, they love big gulps in Big D. From fifty dollar steaks to  killer bbq, Dallas has food for the hungry nomad, blessed or broke. And then their is shopping. I loathe shopping, but, if you are a shopaholic, then you will think you have died and and gone to heaven in Dallas. From the high end North Park to the very hip Bishop Arts District, shoppers of every ilk can feed their retail inner self in Dallas. No-siree! You don't have to be a millionaire to enjoy the delights of one of the biggest cities in the heartland, but don't show up without some cash or at least a fairly large credit limit on your American Express.

AND MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE KIDS!

This trip began to germinate in my son's mind  when it was announced that the Defending National Football Champs, The Florida State Seminoles, would be playing a kickoff spectacular against The Oklahoma State Cowboys in The House That Jerry Built, The Dallas Cowboys' AT&T Stadium. Jerry Jones is a perfect troubadour for the Lone Star State and he DOES put his money where his mouth is. A cool billion for one of the sports world's most impressive venues. 

Timing is everything. As it turned out, the game was on August 30, and it was within driving distance of where the little lady and I were going to end up on our anniversary trip, from Bartlesville, Oklahoma and The Wright designed Price Tower and the most impressive 21C Art Hotel in the little village of Bentonville, Arkansas. If you want to read my takes on those Vagabond jewels, just click away. After some late night discussions by phone, one thing led to another and BAM!, a family outing was born. And to put the icing and the cherry on our little travel cake, we all agreed that we should head down to Austin after the big game. I won't go into the logistics involved in getting us all from three different cities in one place at one time. What ever did we do before the internet, email, texting etc. etc. etc.? Since I am the almost senior Nomad of the bunch, it fell to me to find some places to sleep that would meet a Vagabond's standards for design, comfort and cost control. 

IT WAS A FURSHLUGGINER KIND OF A PLACE I TELL YA!

 

As an architect and a Nomad, nothing warms the cockles of my heart more than when I stumble upon a re-purposed, recreated or restored once great place, particularly from the 40's and 50's. Well, I landed on just such a place on the west side of Dallas. The Belmont Hotel's web site said it was a completely renovated and updated 1946 Motor Hotel. Reviews were decent and the description gave one the impression of a very hip place with "the best views in Dallas". Now, I rarely put negative reviews on this blog. That's because I am very good at finding exceptional places, if I do say so myself. But, sometimes - this time, the real just didn't match the virtual.

Modernist master Mies van der Rohe said "God is in the details". Unfortunately, The Belmont didn't get the memo. Too many poor details. Too much broken asphalt paving. Too many fading and unpainted wall surfaces. And it took a little too much effort to see the killer views. Finally, the room, though very clean, just lacked the character that could have been brought out with a more creative approach to design and color. Off white yellow just doesn't do it for me - sorry. The bottom line, in my humble opinion, was the bottom line. They should have spent a little more money to bring back to life what was a very cool place sixty years ago. After a lengthy discussion with my favorite traveling companion and the mother of my thirty something children, who would be arriving the next morning,  I had to make a move.

WHEN YOU'RE DOWN & OUT - GO FURTHER WEST YOUNG VAGABOND - AND DON'T LEAVE OUT FORT WORTH!

And that's exactly what we did. I have made it abundantly clear in this blog that I generally eschew large hotels. However, just to prove I am open minded and always willing to rethink my position, I went on line and checked out the ever so plush and uppity - are you ready for this? OMNI FORT WORTH! Much to my surprise, hotel central for the big game had dropped the price of the rooms well below their normal usurious rate for the well healed. That's right folks, you can say I sold out, but, alas, the Omni Fort Worth was an anti-furshlugginer kind of place and it was worth every last minute, we lowered the rate because we can, penny!!  And to top it off, we got adjoining rooms for the crew in the hotel that was Seminole Central for the crazies that came all the way to big bad Texas to watch the Indians beat the Cowboys. Kemosabe!

Well, I take back almost everything I have ever said about big hotels. The service was amazing. The rooms were fabulous. And the food was to die for. This hotel, as big as it is, really does aim to please. Arriving back  after the game, along with throngs of happy Seminole fans, very late and very hungry, I could not get through on the room service phone, so I went down to the consierge desk to ask if there were any restaurants still open. After asking what I wanted, the consierge excused himself for about thirty seconds and reappeared with a small writing pad and proceeded to write down my order. Within fifteen minutes of returning to the room, a knock came and the food was delivered. Now that's service! And speaking of food, unless you are anti-carnivorous, you must have a steak at Bob's Steak & Chophouse. It's one of several signature restaurants in the hotel. No need to thank me, just enjoy.

Besides football, cowboys and great steaks, how does Dallas stack up?  Like any large city, you have to do some homework to get into the fabric of the place and move beyond the usual. Dallas is not as hip as Austin, as urbane as New York or as beautiful as Seattle, but it does things its own way, and, if you look, you can find enough good "stuff" to come away feeling good about the town where "big things happen".

The Kimbell Art Museum is a must see for lovers of art and architecture. This small museum boasts world class art and one of the truly great designs by iconic architect Louis Kahn. The new Piano Pavillion by famed architect Renzo Piano adds to the high quality of one of the great museum experiences in America. The Cultural District of Fort Worth boasts a collection of museums, restaurants and entertainment venues second to none.

The Bishop Arts District is a more hip, lower brow collection of galleries, funky furniture stores, great restaurants and interesting people. You can pick up some very unusual finds to spice up your own place and  you won't have to empty your bank account doing it. Great food and great atmosphere make this a must do on your list.

If you want a unique shopping experience, then Highland Park Village is your place. According to The Urban Land Institute, it is America's first planned shopping center. With an eclectic blend of big names and locals, and great architecture, it provides a top tier shopping experience.

And finally, for some serious fun and food, a visit to The Fort Worth Stockyards is worth the side trip. After some great barbeque at Billy Bob's, stop by M.L. Leddy's Boots & Saddlery and pick up a nice pair of custom made $600 boots. Now that will add to your Vagabond Swagger when you get home.



So there you have it. Dallas is definitely worth the trip. Great sports, great art, ridiculous food and, best of all, at least one big hotel that delivers the goods for discriminating vacationistas.

Next up - Austin - Hipsterville, Texas.

GO BIG D!

D.L.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

Travel Quote of The Week - If you ain't Texan, I ain't got time for you - Kinky Friedman - writer, singer and Texas raconteur.

This Week's Video Artist - LYLE LOVETT. No artist says Texas quite like the ex-husband of Julia Roberts. What was he thinkin'? Check out this video on a great tune with a little common sense explanation by this great Texas Master of Irony - That's Right You're Not From Texas.

A BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN A TALL BUILDING - GENIUS ON THE PRAIRIE

This Is What Happens When A Willing Visionary Meets an Unabashed Genius

  

I have often wondered what an entire city, region or country would be like if it were designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. I think it would raise the human spirit because of his obsessive search for beauty and meaning in the built environment. I also think that it would be exasperating in practical terms, because it would often ignore the practical for the artful, creating unending problems for visitor and owner alike. From oddly shaped, tight spaces to chronic maintenance problems, leaking roofs and other never ending practical concerns, I think it would require the patience of Job and the appreciation of art no matter what the cost to own a Frank Lloyd Wright building.

The Price Tower is the only "skyscraper" ever designed and built by America's greatest architect. And without the ultimate benefactor, Harold C. Price, an entrepreneur and risk taker in the oil pipeline business, this one of a kind building would never have been realized. As with all great architecture, it always takes two to tango. And, in the case of the Price Tower, America's most gifted architect collaborated with the perfect client, who had the money, the spirit and the willingness to see it through. The Inn at Price Tower in Bartlesville, Oklahoma was originally designed as an office building with apartments for tenants.
 

 

Like many great mid-century buildings, the Price Tower fell victim to the vagaries of uninformed, insensitive owners, the impact of exposure to the elements and the technical and cultural changes that inevitably cause a building to fall into obsolescence and, ultimately, into disrepair. And, as one would expect, the history of exactly how this unusual building came to be is convoluted and complicated. For a detailed timeline and "inside baseball" account of the tower, you can read  Prairie Skyscraper on the tower website.

Saving such a building usually involves people with great passion for the art they want to preserve and tons and tons of money. After years of misuse and decline, Phillips Petroleum donated the building to The Price Tower Arts Center. Through their efforts and many benefactors, as well as the very sensitive design efforts by architect Wendy Evans Joseph, this great little tall building has been repurposed as a nineteen room boutique hotel, which makes the trip to Bartlesville worth at least one night's stay for  design seeking Nomads.

 

Bartlesville, Oklahoma - You Can't Get There From Here

 

For the uninitiated - Bartlesville is NOT a destination. About an hours drive from Tulsa, this prairie town of 36,000 has nothing to offer vagabonds looking for excitement, unless you are really interested in Phillips Petroleum or its wealthy founder, Frank Phillips, and the wild animal preserve Woolaroc. The oil giant, now headquartered in Houston, was founded in Bartlesville. No boutique spas or five star restaurants greet the Nomad looking for a good time in this small enclave not far from the southern border of Kansas.

 

However, if you want to experience the intense design quality of one of Frank Lloyd Wright's most innovative structures which has become a striking boutique  hotel in the only skyscraper ever designed and built by America's most egomaniacal architectural genius, Bartlesville is the place to go.

Sleeping In "The Tree That Escaped The Crowded Forest" -

 

As was his tendency, Wright referred to his one and only built skyscraper in poetic "organic" terms. And it is organic and its is poetic. The building, particularly the interiors,  "reads" mostly like Joyce Kilmer, with some William S. Burroughs thrown in to keep you on your toes, literally. First and foremost, the interiors of the hotel have been restored almost to perfection. Fortunately, the interior design by Architect Joseph complements Wright's mastery of space, without simply copying him. The finishes, the furniture and the accessories are thoroughly modern and enhance the experience of the spacial dynamics of the original design.

It has been well established that Wright based much of the scale of his interiors on himself. He was only about 5'6". It makes perfect sense that a narcissist of the first order like Wright would dimension his buildings to "fit" himself. This practice is very evident in most of his buildings. However, in his defense, he also utilized this design slight of hand as a device to enhance the experience of "exploding" larger and more grand spaces, like the two story suite we stayed in. I highly recommend this room type when you stay. Not only is the bed to die for, but, the interior space is truly a delight and the view out over the town and prairie beyond through two story glass is worth the few extra dollars.
 

Some areas of the hotel, particularly the unit stairs, doors and other access ways are very tight, forcing one to deal with Wright's obsessive adherence to the angular geometry established as part of the basic design. And, in the interest of full disclosure, the air conditioning was on the fritz the night we were there. To their credit, the management offered to refund our money and set us up in a nearby hotel, but, being very tough nomads, we rejected that offer. As I told the concierge -  What's a little heat when you're enjoying Wright up close and personal? And once the sun went down, it was more than comfortable. This was our forty first anniversary trip and we did not want to spend it in a Holiday Inn Express! We were more than rewarded for our unwillingness to settle with the great views out over the town and prairie with the Oklahoma sun  setting in the west.

The hotel has Copper, a  bar and restaurant on the fifteenth floor with outdoor terraces to enjoy the food and more views. However, we were there on a Monday and, alas, Copper was closed. However, we were able to enjoy a nice continental breakfast on one of the outdoor terraces. Decent food and, again, outstanding views. Just know that the elevators that take you to this floor will only hold 2-3 people. Very European in a mid-century modern kind of way. And finally, the docent led behind the scenes tour of the building is well worth the nominal ten dollar fee. It opens with a short documentary film, after which the docent takes you through many of the spaces not open to the public. Our docent, a transplant from I forgot where was informative and at times utterly hilarious. Her knowledge of the men,  the building and the many myths about both was fascinating.

After the building tour, I recommend spending about two hours driving around Bartlesville to see some of the eccentric houses designed by Oklahoma's most famous architect, Bruce Goff. Like Wright, Goff, who designed his first building as a teenager and later became the head of the school of architecture at The University of Oklahoma, was also an adherent of organic architecture. His houses are worth seeing for those of you who want to see organic design at its edgiest. Just ask the concierge for the list and search them out with your I-phone. Great way to spend an afternoon in the metropolis of Bartlesville.

As we loaded the car for the next leg of our road trip, I felt like the vagabond that had found yet another gem. I realized, once again, that Frank Lloyd Wright, who was called many things during and after his controversy filled life, was, after all is said and done, a truly great architect. And, I was thankful that someone had the vision, the passion and the money to ensure that this building in this place is still here in all of its imperfect glory.

 

On The Road Again

D.L. Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

Travel Quote of The Week - "Give me the luxuries of life and I will willingly do without the necessities." - Frank Lloyd Wright. Don't tell me old Frank was not a vagabond at heart!

Video Artist of The Week - Alabama Shakes - Purveyors of "Roots Rock" - This edgy group, yes they are from Alabama, lays down some great grooves, combining, folk, rock and country for a completely unique sound.