07-31-24 THE WILD WILD WEST WITH 9,400 MUSIC LOVIN' NOMADS - ROCK & ROLL @ RED ROCKS

OK. THAT'S ENOUGH, FOR NOW, OF TRAVEL TO THE CRADLE OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION - ITALY. TODAY WE'RE GOING TO SEE AND HEAR SOUNDS FROM ONE OF THE MOST UNIQUE PERFORMANCE VENUES IN THE UNITED STATES - RED ROCKS AMPHITHEATRE AS WELL AS SOME PERSONAL THOUGHTS ON BEING AN ARCHITECT. LOL!!!

NATURE'S ARCHITECT MAKES THE REST OF US LOOK LIKE FIRST YEAR ROOKIES

Back in the day, and I would assume the same now, first year architecture students mentally lived with a unique combination of disdain and fear. Disdain, because you obviously had no idea what you were doing, and the fear that you didn't possess the talent or fortitude to make it through the rigors and insanity of architecture school.  As Frank Lloyd Wright so eloquently affirmed - If you can't be anything else, be an architect. Only a person with extreme issues of self-loathing would subject themselves to five or six years of the unrelenting abuse architecture schools can heap on a delusional insomniac with dreams of being the next Howard Roark, the central character in The Fountainhead, written by the mother of Objectivism, Ayn Rand. The plot centers around a gifted architect, who blew up a building because it wasn't "architecturally honest". Gary Cooper played the uncompromising genius in the 1949 classic against Patricia Neal as his love interest. Ooh La La!

As for the fear part - Yes, it is real and yes, it never ends. I have been an architect for over forty years, and I still have moments of self-doubt and obsessive voices in my head every time I sit down at a drawing board. Oh wait - architects don't use those anymore. But I digress.

Another admonition by the greatest American Architect of the twentieth century was his insistence that one go to the Grand Canyon for design inspiration. Well, if he were to design an outdoor performance venue, he would have needed to look no further than Red Rocks Amphitheatre in Morrison, Colorado, about ten miles up the road from Denver. Built in 1906, this amazing natural venue with seating for 9,400+ music lovers, surrounded by massive natural rock formations, has hosted the likes of Jimmie Hendrix, U2, Neil Young, Led Zeppelin, Bonnie Raitt - the list is endless. Even the Fab Four - John, Paul, George & Ringo - played this famed venue August 26, 1964. Three weeks later, yours truly saw the four mop tops at the Gator Bowl in Jacksonville, Florida. Today's new rockers - The Avett Brothers, Mumford & Sons or J.J. Grey & Mofro are continuing the tradition, entertaining music fans who happily make the trek to 6,400 feet above sea level to hear the best of the popular music scene today.

 

I want all vagabonds, wanderers, nomads and serious music lovers to appreciate this blogger's insistence that we are not just about the design of places to sleep. We are also about finding those places that, somehow, transcend the every day. And Red Rocks proves that it is virtually impossible for a mere architect, no matter how talented, to ever one up nature. Aesthetically and acoustically, this place rocks.

A word of warning - If you are averse to climbing stairs - lots and lots and lots of stairs - you may want to arrange a limousine or a bus. As I commented to another concert goer - the architects did a great job inserting the amphitheater seating sensitively into a brutally powerful landscape - not so much on the vertical transportation though. However, once you arrive at your seat, with the view over the mountains and the city of Denver, you forget about the Sherpa-esque stairway to Heaven you had to traverse to get there. And, of course, it doesn't hurt to hear rockers of the caliber of My Morning Jacket and Mumford & Sons wail to beat the band. I am sure Frank is looking down and enjoying the show.

A few years back, I had the distinct pleasure of seeing Alabama Shakes, My Morning Jacket, The Drive By Truckers and other artists at this amazing place where everything rocked. And I can testify that the steps were challenging. I was joined by my most favorite group of nomads - Susie, Lance, Lauren and Tara. All obsessive music fans.   Once we took our seats, the place showed its power and acoustic perfection all night for every artist that performed.

d.l.stafford

THENOMADarchitect

Travel Quote of The Week - “All the pathos and irony of leaving one’s youth behind is thus implicit in every joyous moment of travel: one knows that the first joy can never be recovered, and the wise traveler learns not to repeat successes but tries new places all the time.” – Paul Fussell

Video Artist of The Week - Who better? Here is a powerful song by the multi-award-winning band Mumford & Sons at Red Rocks - I Will Wait.

August 26, 2015

GRANADA, GAR ANAT & ALHAMBRA - OTRO CUBO LISTER (ANOTHER BUCKET LISTER) FOR SURE

Even Car Rentals Are Muy Barato (Very Cheap) In The Land Of Quixote

Because of our plans to venture away from metropolitan areas, we rented a sweet little Fiat 500 L for five days for a measly $34.00 per day, from Hertz no less, and headed for Granada. Spain, on the road, is a beautiful country. And the small enclave of Granada is the perfect place to walk and enjoy the sites and sounds of a beautiful town with a world class UNESCO  World Heritage Site - Alhambra. Our small, boutique 4-star hotel, Gar Anat Hotel Boutique, has only fifteen rooms and is located in the center of the small town, so you can walk everywhere to restaurants and other cool places to, see.

 

Due to our plans for the remainder of our trip, we broke our Nomad Rule (minimum three nights) and stayed only one night at this small, intimate hotel. The low price of $170.00 included a beautifully appointed room, complimentary wine, snacks and breakfast. Which, as you can see in the photograph, is served in a stone vaulted room that combines ancient and modern to perfection. All good! This small higher end hotel, at the price it charges, further supports this Vagabond's advice to go to Spain to see some of the best designed places in Europe for a song, compared to the rest of Europe.

The Alhambra Is A Reminder of Past Magnificence in Architecture

This unbelievable palace and center of the Moorish World for two centuries is a must see for any Nomad. Its history of design and construction is beyond the scope of this blog. Suffice to say, it is long and complicated. For more information on the history of this sprawling group of buildings just click here and here. To get you a little more interested in this magnificent work of architecture, enjoy a short presentation by the Traveler In Chief Rick Steves:
 

Due to its size and complexity, I highly recommend that you book a tour with one of the local tour companies. We used VIATOR, which is affiliated with Trip Advisor. Our guide/docent was full of great information about the details of this magnificent structure. Another recommendation is to plan your visit to be an all day trek.

Next Up: We head to the country to one of the coolest places I-Escape presents for Nomads to lay their heads while enjoying the countryside, great food and simple relaxation.

Me Encanta Este Pais (I Love This Country)

d.l.stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

P.S. - And for your continued enjoyment of randomly found great music, please enjoy an ACL performance by one of the most unique folk/rock bands performing today as The Avett Brothers render a fresh take on a very old gospel song:
 

AND PICKING UP WHERE WE LEFT OFF TELLING YOU ABOUT SPAIN - GET OUT YOUR LAPTOP

YOU HAD ME AT HOLA

That's right. The people of Spain throughout are friendly, helpful and seem to truly enjoy their lives. AND - they generally either speak English or give it their best college try. OK - I will admit a certain digression in my recounting of one of the truly great adventures this Nomad, his Mrs. Nomad and his Nomad Kids in one of the greatest countries on the planet - Spain. To bring all of my favorite readers up to speed, please click on the following links to read the first three posts about our 2015 trip to The Land of The Conquistadors: 
 

Waitin' On A Plane To The Plain In Spain  / Madrid - Europe's Second Coolest Capital  /

Museum Day In Madrid - Guernica And Tapas

Next Step - La Mancha - A Bucket List Must

It was our third and last day in the urban metropolis of Madrid. So what are a boy and girl to do in Ispania, the land of  rabbits, as the Carthaginians named it in 300 B.C.? After picking up a sweet little Volvo number, we struck out for the land of La Mancha and the storied windmills of Señor Don Quixote & his loyal squire Sancho Panza. With our I-phones and Google Maps directing us - we are after all conversant with all the latest in vagabond technology - we arrived in the land made famous by the the first modern novel - Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra.

As Exploradors, we took in completely an area of Spain that has become the physical embodiment of the myths so poetically written about in the great novel by Cervantes. The area, and, more specifically, the windmills must be seen on any trip to Western Spain. It is, at most,  a relaxing two hour drive from Madrid through the plains to an area and the small town of Consuegra nearby that feels almost medieval. There are several restored windmills. Four are still usable with the machinery still working so you may, if you desire, see how these ancient structures used to work. It is said that these windmills were passed down from generation to generation and the primary purpose of them was to grind grain.  There is also a tenth century castle to enjoy.

One thing that must be experienced, no matter how many books or pamphlets you read about the area, is the vibe. With the windmills standing strong on a long rise against flat plains surrounding these vigilant structures, it feels like you have truly stepped back in time. This was a great, inexpensive, relaxing day trip from Madrid.
 

So, check your New Year's Resolutions AND your Bucket List, and get busy making plans to travel to one of Europe's truly great countries with great hotels, great food and some of the most amazing architecture on the planet. Any country that produced the master of modern art Pablo Picasso and one of the world's greatest architects, Antonio Gaudi, must be on every Nomad's Bucket List. With the Euro at an all time low against the Dollar, there is no better time to go than 2017.

Disfrute del paseo !!

d.l.stafford

thenomadARCHITECT

Video Artist of The Week - The Avett Brothers - OK - I am a new fan of this pop/rock/folk band from North Carolina. This band of two brothers and other great players and singers dishes out an entirely new take on pop, blues, country, honky tonk and ragtime. Take a listen of a cut off their latest CD - Ain't No Man.

RANDON VAGABOND ALERT - THIS IS ABSOLUTELY NUTS!!

OK - If you are a budget conscious vagabond and long to travel to faraway lands in Europe AND you want to throw in a side trip to Iceland for a few days, but you can't bring yourself to pull that trigger because the flights to Paris or Barcelona or Milan or anywhere else across the pond are just too steep, then The Nomad Architect has something you need to see. I mean this deal is shamadelicious, bona fide crazy and simply unbelievable. But I have checked it out and it is the real deal. If you are willing to be flexible, you can have a great trip with a side adventure in one of the most enchanting places in the northern hemisphere. Read on fellow vagabonds. This deal can scratch your wanderlust itch for a song.

WOW and Then Some!!!!!

 

We will start this little adventure with one simple word - WOW. That's right, WOW Airlines, based in Iceland, is the highly rated newest member of the low cost airline market and they have recently started flights from select US airports (Boston, New York, DC, etc.) to numerous European destinations (Paris, Barcelona, Amsterdam, etc.). Much like Ryan Air of the UK, they do charge for everything, but, if you're smart, you can get to Paris and back for under $450, including one carry on and one checked bag or $350 with only one carry on. And even if you have to get to one of the airports  WOW flies from, you can still do this on the cheap, compared to normal flights with  Delta or other major carriers. But the good news doesn't end there. As part of their low price offers, you can fly to Reykjavik, stay a few days and wander around the beautiful small country of Iceland (It only has 330,000 plus residents), then catch your flight to Paris or some other destination and then fly back to your US destination. It's almost like a two-fer.

The only catch with these ridiculous fares is the necessity to be smart AND flexible to get the lowest price or travel with one change of clothes in your single carry on and stay where washers and dryers are available. Don't laugh, I just read an article by a fearless traveler who spent a year traveling in Eurasia with one carry on bag. To assist my fellow vagabonds with this process and to help you get the lowest price, just follow this link - WOW Stopover In Iceland and additional details with this link - How Does the WOW Stopover Work?.

You Gotta Find A Place Right?

Just because I CARE and I want my readers to have the best of the best, at reasonable prices- here  are some links to cool places to stay in Iceland depending on your budget. And, of course, you can utilize these same sites for your stay in Europe.

I-Escape. I have personally used this great bundler for high design places many times. This link lists numerous places in Iceland that will give you a comfy place to lay your head and enjoy this small, eco-centric country from high to low price.

AIRBNB. I just stayed a week in yet another killer place from AIRBNB in Sonoma and for a lot less than I would have paid in a major hotel. They have 300 plus rentals in Iceland from very cheap to very expensive.

TABLET. Since you will save so much on your flights, you may want to check out TABLET HOTELS for a more expensive place to rest your weary bones after hiking the hinterland all day.

So there you have it. If you have those wanderlust blues and need a fix for less money, WOW has the plan for you to enjoy some serious away time on the cheap. And don't postpone too long - the deal may go away and it starts getting pretty cold in November in The Land of Fire & Ice.

Góða Ferð My Fellow Vagabonds,

D.L. Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

 

 

CHRISTMAS IN JULY - HELLO NEW YAWK CITY - BOOYAH! - REPOST

DANCE OF THE SUGAR PLUMS, GREAT ART & RIDICULOUS FOOD IN THE BIG APPLE

OK - In the interest of pure, unedited honesty - this is a repost. It's not too early to plan your travel future and planning a trip to NYC during Christmas should start about now. So, I thought you might benefit from reading about our experiences in what many consider to be America's greatest urban center. Whether you agree with that is a discussion for another time and another place. I know, I know - You probably don't really want to read about the bright lights of NYC at Christmas time right in the middle of our currently long hot summer. But I have to correct a most egregious dereliction of duty on the part of this wandering vagabond heart. I left out all the cool stuff and my thoughts on all things great and small in the city that never sleeps - not to mention a killer hotel right off Times Square. I got way too busy dealing with all things holiday- kids, the countdown, presents, shopping (ugh!) - and we bought a house - SO, I have posted nil in months.

Once again, just like last year, I thought today's post would give at  least a virtual respite from that famous Tallahassee heat and humidity. As a close friend and musical mentor who moved to Arizona said upon returning for a short visit - "I knew I was in Tallahassee when I got off the plane and all the air was sucked out of my body". That's what happens when you live in a place that averages about 20-30 percent  humidity. Serves him right for leaving God's Country. My apologies to those vagabonds who happen to live in more hospitable summer climes. So this week's post will enter into the official blogosphere record a trip that has been on my bride's Bucket List since we started life together 42 years ago next month - Christmas in New York City - Check!

 

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION - WHERE YOU SLEEP MATTERS

 

Making a hotel reservation in New York, can be a daunting task. New York may, in fact, have more hotels per square foot than any city on the planet. According to the internet - and you know its true if it's on the internet - 54 million wandering souls visit this city every year. When you toss in the roughly 8 million plus permanent residents, well it's a busy place.


Therefore, you want to stay as close to the action as possible, lest a Nomad spend too much time and too much money getting from place to place, particularly when you factor in relatively long waits for taxis - and it's Christmas!

 

After researching dozens of hotels in NYC, we settled on a very small hip place just two blocks off Times Square - ROW NYC. This boutique hotel has everything one needs to rest up from a day of sight seeing or a night on the town. The design motif is pure urban minimalist from the understated lobby-bar-social meeting place to the large graphics in the rooms. Typical for New York, the rooms are not huge, but plenty big for two bleary eyed vagabonds. I recommend a Superior City View Room. It's about the same price as a regular room and you get glimpses of the city that absolutely, positively never sleeps. Our room had a killer view up the 8th Avenue canyon. Concierge Service was very good and helpful with directions, restaurant recommendations/reservations, etc.. One helpful point here - Make your reservation at least two months before your trip and check back often as your departure approaches. We got a reduced rate about a week before our trip via an email offer from the hotel. At Christmas no less- go figure!

 

 

OMG "FILL IN ANYONE'S NAME HERE" - YOU WON'T BELIEVE THE FOOD

Like New Orleans, Chicago, Austin, Paris and all of Italy, New York City has great food that will warm the cockles of every foodie vagabond's heart. American - Fusion - Italian - Burgers - Cheap - Expensive - As they say in my neck of the woods - If you cain't find good food in New Yawk, you ain't lookin'. There are two particular restaurants that IMHO every temporary Manhattanite must check out. First, for a superb Italian feast, the quaint bistro Amarone Ristorante will transport you to that little place you always want to be when you enjoy a fine meal with the one you love. This place just happens to be in the heart of the Theatre District, but you will think you are on a side alley in Montepulciano. The place is simple with unadorned brick walls and classic white table cloths. The food is real and superb. The wine, all Italian of course, is also outstanding. And all the waiters may be from Brooklyn, but they sounded Italian to me. The restaurant's tag line on their web site says:

Amarone Ristorante is a secret gem in Hell's Kitchen. This authentic Italian gem offers amazing eats that reflect the owners' Italian background.

Again, from my neck of the woods - It ain't braggin' if you can back it up. Amarone backs it up.

ATTENTION ALL VEGANS - DO NOT READ THIS!

Carnivores, on the other hand, listen up. Upon the recommendation of an in-law, who shall remain nameless to protect her from the onslaught of Texts, Tweets, Instagrams and Facebook Trolls she would no doubt receive from the red meat hating food police, castigating her for recommending a restaurant that prides itself on serving the finest slain bovine on the planet, we made reservations at one of the most unique restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of eating in - Quality Meats. This interesting multi-level eatery, part of an exclusive group of  restaurants in New York and Miami, proves that quality really has no substitute. Steaks with every trimming you could ever want paired with a great wine recommended by the excellent wait staff came together like Sinatra and "New York, New York"  . I'm spreadin' the news - Quality Meats must be added to every  NYC loving foodie's Bucket List. And kudos to my unnamed in-law. You did good girl.

 

WHO LOVES YOU PRETTY BABY!

The Great White Way is one of America's great cultural treasures, and after over 1,400 performances,The Jersey Boys has become one of the hottest tickets on Broadway. With minimal set pieces, this drama/musical trip about one of America's greatest pop-rock groups, The Jersey Boys captures the true story and essence of the 100 million record selling super group. We so enjoyed the story about this often troubled group  with the unique high falsetto front man, Frankie Valli. The stripped down performance in the intimate August Wilson Theatre makes the musical presentation of some of the greatest pop songs ever recorded something to remember. And they sang virtually every hit this Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inducted group ever recorded - Sherry - Big Girls Don't Cry - Rag Doll - ad infinitum. The actor/singer Joseph Leo Bwarie absolutely killed the Frankie Valli role with his voice and the nuance of this complex icon and his even more complex relationship with the other members of The Four Seasons. If you are a child of the sixties, ya gotta go! And drag your kids along so they can see and hear what real talent looks and sounds like.

 

THE NUTCRACKER, THE ROCKETTES, A BIG TREE & MATISSE AT MOMA - WOW!!

 

One of the great joys of visiting a city like New York is the opportunity to see the best of the best. Premiering on February 2, 1954, the George Balanchine Nutcracker Ballet is something that every person, young or old, should see. The music of Tchaikovsky, combined with the genius of Balanchine and the talents of some 90 world class dancers, presents all that is magical about the vision of Christmas. In  a world that is growing increasingly harder to understand, this annual Christmas extravaganza brings all who see it closer to the joy and beauty of our greatest holiday tradition.

 

And then we have those girls with legs that seemingly go on forever - The Rockettes. With over eighty dancers, all the same height, this dance troupe has been performing their dazzling choreography for over eighty years in one of the most iconic performance halls in America - Radio City Music Hall. Put simply, The Rockettes are a true red, white and blue blast of pure entertainment presenting Christmas entertainment at its best. And they look pretty good doing it.

And there, right in the middle of Manhattan - The giant tree in Rockefeller Center sets the mood for any Christmas visit to The Big Apple. It's very big, it's very bright and it will make you feel like Christmas. If, upon viewing this magnificent sentinel of light, you don't feel like celebrating all that Christmas means - sorry, that's on you.

 

New York is one of those places that forces any Wandering Nomad to make sometimes hard choices on what and what not to see and do. However, one experience any self respecting vagabond cannot forgo on any visit to NYC is an afternoon wandering among the great works of art that adorn the walls of  The Museum of Modern Art (MOMA). World class paintings, sculpture and other objects de arte abound in this museum that has been at the cutting edge of modern art since 1929. The special exhibit - Matisse: The Cutouts - must be seen up close and personal to grasp the impact of one of modern art's most compelling and inventive artists.

FINALLY - THE WORLD TRADE CENTER - BE PREPARED!

The horrific events of 911 are respectfully remembered in film, architecture and artifacts at The 911 Memorial and Museum. You simply cannot visit this amazing memorial without understanding how ordinary Americans can  do extraordinary things when circumstances demand it and the unflinching spirit of America in the face of incomprehensible horror. The  gravity of the devastation that took place on this iconic parcel of real estate is apparent as you enter the main plaza surrounding the black sculptural voids of the original Twin Towers with a continuous black granite viewing rail featuring the embossed names of some 3,000 innocent victims who died in this soul shattering, murderous attack perpetrated by people who redefine evil of the first order. Upon entering the museum, you are first given the opportunity to view a film with dozens of world leaders, firemen, police and other ordinary Americans who had some connection with the only attack on our homeland by a foreign entity. The museum itself, which descends to the lowest foundations of the original World Trade Center subtly features a simple modern design motif by the architectural-design team lead by  David Brody Bond juxtaposed against remaining foundations, steel columns and artifacts that render the experience not so much like a museum but more like a continuous visual and emotional journey through tragedy that ultimately gives way to the life affirming power of the human spirit.

Then you see the future rising out of the ash heap from the main level of the museum as the New One World Trade Center, at a height of 1776 feet, comes into view and you hear yourself believing once again - America is still the most brilliant idea ever birthed in the mind of human kind. It is an experiment that will prevail  even in the most adverse of circumstances. As Thomas Jefferson said in 1787:

The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots & tyrants. It is it’s natural manure.

As we were leaving this place, which so eloquently memorializes the somber events of that tragic day in our history, I looked up to see the gleaming new tower of the New World Trade Center and I thought - God Bless America Indeed.



Thank You New York & America - Still The Land of The Free

d.l.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE WEST COAST ANSWER TO THE GOOD LIFE - CARMEL BY THE SEA

NOCAL HAS FIFTY WAYS TO IMPRESS YOUR LOVER

And Carmel By The Sea, or simply Carmel, struts its stuff around every corner, in every courtyard, art gallery, bistro, bakery and restaurant with a view. Several years ago, we drove on the outskirts of Carmel on our way to San Francisco from Big Sur. So returning to this unique enclave of the quintessential "life up on the hill" has been on our Bucket list for years.

There are no bad views in Northern California's world apart from the morass of humanity that is found in Southern California. There is an endearing vibe, a zen quality, if you will,  of utter relaxation,  about this enclave of the rich and famous, ne'er do wells and old hippies with money. Founded in 1902,  Carmel, with its natural beauty and legacy of artistic residents, including painters, sculptors, poets, writers and other assorted creatives  has endured as a place to be seen and experienced to be appreciated. According to Wikipedia, in 1910 it was reported that 60 percent of Carmel's houses were built by citizens who were "devoting their lives to work connected to the aesthetic arts. Early City Councils were dominated by artists, and the city has had several mayors who were poets or actors, including Herbert Heron, founder of the Forest Theatre, bohemian writer and actor Perry Newberry, and actor-director Clint Eastwood."
 

AIRBNB + POINT LOBOS = KILLER VIEWS WITHOUT BREAKING THE BANK

I have sung the praises of AIRBNB before on this blog. We have stayed at AIRBNB properties in the States and in Europe. Once again, the grand daddy of peer to peer vacation rentals did not disappoint. Just outside of Carmel we found this private guest cottage with a stunning view of the Pacific over Point Lobos State Reserve, considered to be the crown jewel of the California park system. Complete with small kitchen, rain shower bath, wood floors, large skylights, fireplace, comfy bed and floor to ceiling glass overlooking a large deck and the Pacific, The Epic Ocean View Private Lil Cottage served as NOCAL Central for our stay in the Carmel area. Because it is only five minutes from Carmel and just off California State Highway 1, access to downtown, other must sees, shopping and restaurants, including numerous places on the famous coastline road is quick and easy via car.
 

NEED  A NICE RIDE FOR PENNIES?  SIXT IS THE ANSWER

With the tag line - Drive First Class, Pay Economy - SIXT Rental Car is the latest to jump into the  travel/rental car market Stateside. And if you think that's just a marketing slogan, then you would be wrong. After our arrival at San Jose Airport, we picked up a tricked out BMW 5X SUV. After a slight learning curve with all of the new millennium gadgetry, we were on our way in the largest luxury SUV made by the venerable German automotive perfectionists. Now for the "NO WAY!" you say. The total rental?  Including federal-state-city-county-value added and California is broke taxes, enviro-natzi  fees, carbon footprint assessments, airport payola, the works - the total rental was $252 for four days. Same car, same time - Budget Rent-a-Car - are you ready? $782!!!!!!! Sometimes better mouse traps are just that - better mouse traps. Unfortunately, SIXT is not everywhere in the States yet, although they are in most major cities, so you need to check their web site for locations. They are everywhere in Europe, so a CHEAP NOMAD WHO LIKES ARRIVING IN STYLE RECOMMENDATION - check out SIXT next time you need a nice ride for a song.

Next time - Wine, Food and Clint's Place - Amazing!!


d.l.stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

“I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move.”
― Robert Louis Stevenson, Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes    




 

MUSEUM DAY IN MADRID - GUERNICA AND TAPAS TO BEAT THE BAND

It Always Helps To Know A Guy (or girl) That Knows A Guy

 

One of the most impressive things about The One Shot I raved about in my last post on Madrid was the staff. The young ladies at the front desk seemed to know everything about everything in the Prado area. Waking up with reduced jet lag our second day, we asked about a place for breakfast. They pointed us to a very small café just down the lane - D.O.C.C. Madrid - Perfecto! As we were served by a most helpful and resourceful barista/manager of this 10-12 seat eatery, it became apparent that the Spanish are very accommodating people, even with Americans who speak embarrassingly bad Spanish.

However, one thing must be noted. Call me an Ugly American if you like, but, the Spanish do not have the coffee thing figured out. This is going to sound soooooo uncharitable - but we are all about the truth here at TNA. The coffee served in virtually all restaurants and coffee shops in Spain is Café Con Leche - half coffee and half warm milk. It is always luke warm and tastes rather odd to a palette that is accustomed to very hot coffee with a small amount  of cream and sweetener. I know what your thinking - What an unliberated American  toadie, right? I apologize in advance for my embrace of that symbol of American coffee excess. That's right - the only real coffee I had in Spain was purchased at - you guessed it - Starbucks. I should probably have my vagabond credentials suspended for not "acting like a local", but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. I don't care what Rick Steves says. Trains and Tapas - Sí. Coffee - No!

Would You Like To Go To The Museum Today Mi Amor?  Sí She Said

After breakfast we hailed a taxi and said Hola! Reina Sofia, por favor. Ten minutes later we pulled up to Madrid's national museum of modern art. This former 16th century hospital boasts permanent and temporary exhibitions of Spanish and other international artists. Works  by renowned painters and sculptors Joan Miro, Donald Judd, Max Ernst and Georges Braque, to name just a few, ensure that the visitor will see some of the most provocative, ground breaking art of the last century.

Enjoying the many works in Madrid's largest and best known museum, we strolled into the room in which is hung one of the truly great paintings by one of modern art's greatest painters. Many art lovers and critics alike view Guernica as Pablo Picasso's greatest work. Upon seeing this enormous painting up close and personal, it is hard to argue against that point of view.

 

 

An apt description of the painting, its scope and effect on the viewer is best summarized by travel blogger Katie Hammel in an excerpt from  one of her articles entitled Viewing Guernica at Madrid’s Reina Sofia Museum:

Picasso’s Guernica is one of the most visually stunning paintings in the world, and one that is best appreciated when viewed in person. At first glance, the painting looks like chaos – all hard lines, blunt angles, and cartoonish scenes of animals and people. But when you look at the details, you begin to see more. Here’s a woman, grieving for the child in her arms. There’s a fallen man, his broken sword lying beside him. The painting depicts the bombing of Guernica (in Basque Spain) during the Spanish Civil War. The Guernica takes up nearly an entire wall of the museum, and at 11 feet tall and nearly 27 feet wide, it is simply massive.

After the Reina and a light lunch, we returned to the Prado area and the beautiful Neptune Fountain. We then decided to do what all good tourists do - hop on a Hop On - Hop Off  Bus for a grand tour of Spain's capital city. Never having done this rather "touristy" mode of sightseeing before, we both agreed that it is a great, inexpensive way to get an overview of a city, its architecture and its neighborhoods. Plus - you can rest your weary feet while enjoying the view.

Al Final Del Día - How 'Bout Some Local Sobrosa Tapas To Make A Thing Go Right

 

As I said earlier - It always helps to know a guy or girl who knows....you get the picture. Once again, the dynamic duo at the front desk did not disappoint when we asked for dinner suggestions. At the end of a full day of museum stalking and sightseeing we were in need of some really good food. We took a short stroll from One Shot up Calle del Prado and arrived at the absolutely slammed, well designed tapas restaurante LATERAL around 8:30 PM. After only a few minutes, we were ushered to our table amongst many apparently satisfied diners, eating and drinking like the locals. Now - I am, by no means, an expert on Spanish food, tapas or otherwise. But, in this Americano's humble opinion, the numerous courses of spring rolls, calamari, etc., etc., etc., along with a nice bottle of  Tempranillo (Spain's most common grape), were superb in every way. And I could have sworn I saw Hemingway sitting in a corner by himself drinking a small glass of sherry - Just kidding.

And the prices, with the euro at an all time low against the dollar, were  muy barato - actually downright miserly. Take heed my fellow Nomads, if you are looking for a place that will serve you well for very little then get on that plane asap.

As we walked back and prepared for another night's sleep in our little trozo de cielo at The One Shot, we mentally crossed the fabulous Guernica off the Nomad Bucket List. The memory of that profound work of art and strolling the narrow streets of "Magical Madrid" is now
permanently etched in our collective Nomad heads & hearts.


Next up - A Bucket List Day Trip - The Windmills of La Mancha.


Salud Vagabundos

d.l.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

Spanish Lesson of The Week - Spain is downright cheap. That's right fellow Vagabonds, compared to Italy, France and the UK, Spain is one of the lowest cost countries for Nomads looking for a deal. Excellent wine can be had for $3.50 a glass and four star hotels can run as low as $125 a night. And, as of the date of this post, the dollar is a very low $1.12 to the euro. Take that California!

Video Artist of The Week - Joe Cocker, a true R & B, Soul and Rock & Roll legend could be heard in bars and cafes in the Land of Conquistadors. They love that rock and roll in Spain!
 

 

The Ultimate Side Trip - How Architecture Begats Heaven On Earth

I wrote this really great post a while back & forgot to publish it -  OH MY!!

Dateline - Forty-First Anniversary Trip  August 18, 2014
To bring all of you urbane & curious Nomads up to date on one of our annual sojourns for two - we had already stayed two nights at The Price Tower, the only high-rise hotel designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in Bartlesville, OK, of all places, and had driven to the lovely village of Bentonville, AR, home of Walmart and slept amidst the art and design at the elegant 21C Art Hotel and visited the world-class Crystal Bridges Museum - we decided to take a side trip to see a small chapel in the Ozarks and this - as Paul Harvey used to say - is the rest of the story...


This Is What Architecture Does At Its Very Best

 

Frank Lloyd Wright called architecture the mother art. Philip Johnson, creator of, not the best but, the most famous glass house, said - Painters can just throw away or hide their work, architects can only plant vines. Frank Gerry, current architect at the top of the architect cum narcissist heap recently said  - 98% of what gets built today is shit. Don't blame me, Frank said it - not I. And finally, Lord Norman Foster, designer of such iconic buildings as "The Gherkin Building" in London (it does look like a giant pickle) said - Architecture is an expression of values. OK then.

 

The world of architecture is full of manifestos, aesthetic declarations and other statements on the importance of architecture in every culture. Almost all architects enjoy theorizing and pontificating about architecture - particularly their own - almost as much as they enjoy designing buildings.  I can only tell you that, as an architect for some thirty five plus years, designing a truly great building is hard. There are so many things that can get in the way - codes, budgets, clients, building committees, architects - the list of barriers to great architecture is quite extensive. So, when we decided to make a day of visiting one of the truly great works of architecture and art in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, we had no idea that our visit would provide such a profound experience.
 

All any Nomad needs to do to understand the impact of architecture is to take a stroll through the Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris or enjoy the unique pleasure of sleeping in a Frank Lloyd Wright house. As they say in some parts - they got nothin' on this place. The glass and wood Thorncrown Chapel in Eureka Springs, Arkansas transcends all of the bromides ever written by self-important architecture critics trying to explain why this or that building transcends their bromides. This small, elegant house of worship is truly transformational.

 

Architecture The Way Nature and God Intended

 

Driving the long and winding road from Bentonville to Eureka Springs, the beauty of the Ozarks was around every curve. As the crow flies, Eureka Springs is only about thirty miles from Bentonville. But the road builders in this part of Northwest Arkansas didn't really concern themselves with the straight and narrow and, by design or not, managed to create a perfect road trip for wandering Nomads of every stripe. As it turned out, our ultimate destination made the one-hour drive seem almost incidental. Having left Bentonville early in the morning, we decided to find a restaurant in Eureka Springs for breakfast. After a few minutes, we found Main Street Café, a classic small diner, and enjoyed a fabulous, typical unhealthy feast of pancakes, sausage, grits and lukewarm coffee.

 

After the most important meal of the day - Yes, Nomads don't live by aesthetic meanderings alone - they gotta eat - we headed to the place we came to see - Thorncrown Chapel.

 

E. Fay Jones, architect and teacher, was the architect of this remarkable building. I had the distinct pleasure of attending a lecture by Jones when I was an architecture student. Unlike many of the architects who came to Auburn to enlighten the cadre of future designers of all things great and small, Jones was a soft spoken, southern gentleman, who let his work do the talking. And it spoke with unsurpassed eloquence and beauty. Primarily a residential architect, Jones defined his own architecture by reinterpreting the tenets of organic architecture espoused by Wright. Using simple local materials, he developed an architecture that was simple, structurally honest, intimate and dramatic.
 

As we approached the chapel along a serpentine walk through old-growth trees in the heart of the Ozarks, the building presented its front façade of glass and wood as thoroughly modern, yet ancient, as though it had been there, in that exact spot, for many millennia. Much like his mentor, Frank Lloyd Wright, Jones perfected the art of what I like to call architecture and transition. From our first glimpse of the building through the trees, we felt as though we were ushered into a place of intense simplicity and beauty. Approaching the front doors of this quite small glass and wood building with heightened expectations,  the detailing of this unadorned wooden structure was simply masterful. And, finally, when we opened the doors and entered this special place of worship, I realized that this is what great architecture is. It can trace its beauty as architecture and art back to 70 BC in achieving the admonitions of Vitruvius - Commodity, firmness and delight. No planting of vines needed here.


As It Turned Out

We arrived at the perfect time. With a small audience/congregation of no more than thirty people, we were seated and had the joy of listening to a former Minister of Music sing the great gospel anthem "My Tribute". And to make the experience complete, the current director sang several old great hymns of the church. We sat in worshipful silence, as we listened to this great traditional music being performed in a church of magnificent modern, yet ancient elegance.
 

So, if you ever get out Arkansas way, take that short drive from the corporate world of tiny Bentonville through the beauty of the Ozarks, to this truly remarkable religious structure. It is a "must see" place that should be on every Nomad's List of Places To See Before You Die.

d.l.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

Travel Quote of The Week - "Really I feel less keen about the Army every day. I think the Church would suit me better." - Winston Churchill

Video Artist of The Week - Jars of Clay - Who better to go along with a transformational work of church architecture than one of Christian Music's more transformational groups.

P.S. Next post, we pick back up on our excursion to the Land of La Mancha - te lo prometo!

ALERTA de VAGABUNDO - WAITIN' ON A PLANE TO THE PLAIN IN SPAIN

Preflight Thoughts

 

Journal Entry while sitting in the World's Worst Airport waiting to board the World's Worst Airline to España:

"Dateline 5/2/15 - Atlanta Airport - On the underground tram from terminal to Delta Gate there is a relatively attractive young woman across from us leaning nonchalantly against the side rail - push up bra - very tight t-shirt - stretch pants/leggings - funky calf high boots - sucking down an iced latte with a golf ball sized wad of gum in her mouth & a water bottle cavalierly "hooked" on her arm - a small leather purse draped over her shoulder & the piece de moda - a tie died hair/head band. And I am thinking - 1) In her own head she knows she is a happening chick - You can tell this from her "worldly" condescending sneer/frown & 2) Seeing an attractive 24 year old (I'm guessing) in the bowels of Hartsfield Airport somehow makes the Atlanta Airport seem better - Well, not really! Oh & she is texting without ceasing like any good Millennial! Goodbye America - Hello La Mancha!"

 

Just an example from my journal to prove that I am NOT a tourist just looking for a good time, but, an observant, erudite chronicler of world culture and its many varied aspects. I am, in a word, a NOMAD, in search of meaning in life and places to sleep that make you feel good AND make you think. We have returned from an amazing trip to one of the most enchanted lands in Europe. The land of ancient religions, ancient architecture, modern design, insane art, conquistadors and enough legends and myths to keep historians blogging well into the next millennium.

 

I will be chronicling our sojourn to the land of Picasso and Gaudi in the coming months. There are so many things I never expected. Every time I go abroad, I return with a renewed sense that the world is truly an amazing place, if you will just take the time to look, see, listen and taste the beauty, debauchery, history and people of other places. America is my home and I love her with every fiber of my being, but, we all need to get out more!

 

So pull up a chair and set a spell. Spain is on the way. The Random Topics will cover all things great and small in the Land of Iberia.

 

D.L. Stafford

THENOMADARCHITECT

 

Travel Quote of The Week - Never go on trips with anyone you do not love. - Ernest Hemingway. They don't call him one of the greats for nothing!

 

Video Artist of The Week - Janice Joplin - After seeing this R & B Rocker in 1968, I knew I would never listen to Rock Music the same way again. And, along with dozens of other American Artists, she can be heard in every bar, café and hotel in Spain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

NORTHWEST ARKANSAS COOL - THE 21C & CRYSTAL BRIDGES

A LOT MORE TO OFFER THAN ONE LOUSY FOOTBALL TEAM & TWO POLITICIANS

James Dickey, poet and author of Deliverance, a very dark novel about southerners at their worst,  once said that Arkansas has thirteen verifiable dialects, making it almost impossible for people from Northern Arkansas  to understand people from Southern Arkansas. Unfortunately, more than a few people think that the only things of interest in Arkansas are its perpetually underperforming football team at The University of Arkansas, Walmart and those purveyors of dirty politics at its best, the Clintons. Not so fast my friend!

In addition to the incredible geography of the Ozarks, Arkansas can claim one of America's most celebrated architects, E. Fay Jones, as a favorite son. An apprentice to Frank LLoyd Wright, Jones became best know for his poetic interpretation of organic design, which is evident in the many houses and other structures he designed. I had the great fortune to hear Jones speak while in architecture school. Unlike the "starchitects" of today, Jones was a soft spoken, almost humble gentleman of immense talent. In addition to Jones, other cultural icons hail from The Natural State, including Johnny Cash, founder of The Band, Levon Helm, and Oscar winner Billy Bob Thornton. With luminaries such as these, the good people of Arkansas can be proud of their state and its citizens for their contributions to the cultural landscape of the good ole USA.

THIS IS NOT YOUR GRANDADDY'S ARKANSAS

Or Bentonville for that matter. Leaving the confines of Architect Wright's Price Tower skyscraper hotel earlier in the week - the tree away from the crowded forest - and the rather pedestrian environs of Bartlesville, Oklahoma, we enjoyed the easy drive to another time and another place, literally and metaphorically. Check my last post if you want the scoop on the Price Tower Hotel.

Bentonville, Arkansas - the home of Walmart, the world's largest employer. The following Wikipedia account of the transition of Bentonville from a rural backwater to the corporate epicenter of the world's largest retailer sums up the immense impact on Bentonville and Northwest Arkansas.

 

Bentonville has been home to Walmart since Sam Walton purchased a store on the town square in 1950 and renamed it Walton's 5 & 10. The retailer continued a rapid growth, but Helen Walton wished to remain in Bentonville to raise the family, and thus by the time Walmart became the #1 Fortune 500 in 2002, it was still based in Bentonville. The impact from the Walmart Home Office is multiplied by the over 1100 prospective Walmart vendors who have established sales offices in the region. The large number of satellite offices for companies of almost every industry means a large number of transplants from around the United States can be found in Bentonville. This phenomena impacts the culture of Bentonville in addition to the city's economy.

 

And yet Bentonville still remains  the quintessential small American town, complete with locally owned storefronts, village squares and friendly citizens. However, like any urban enclave with yuppies and millennials around every corner, you can get a nice 20 ounce white mocha latte for a cool $4.75 at the Pressroom, a local coffee/breakfast/brunch/lunch eatery, complete with un-painted concrete floors, exposed galvanized ductwork and funky objects de art. Trendy is as trendy does! There are multiple food choices in Bentonville to please the palette of any discerning vagabond.

THE 21C AND A WADDLE OF PENGUINS MAKE A THING GO NICE

Our destination in Bentonville was the art centric 21C Museum Hotel. Strategically located in downtown Bentonville, the 21C brings one of the best examples you will ever find of a "concept" hotel to this small  community, a  magnet for vendors and entrepreneurs from all over the globe.  Visionary hotelier Kentuckians Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson have embarked on a completely new approach to the boutique hotel. The sleek, minimalist design by Deborah Berke Partners combines with great service and uncompromised comfort to create a truly unique hotel experience for nomads and vagabonds in search of the best. And it doesn't cost a fortune. At $199 per night, our deluxe king, complete with fabulous bed, large couch,  table and a massive, subway tiled shower/bathroom, exceeded any standard you would expect in a large urban four star hotel, sans the snooty concierge. The staff at the 21C was fabulous.

And to further heighten the "this is a different kinda place" vibe, the owners of this sweet little boutique number decided to insert penguins, lime green at Bentonville, around every corner. According to OurInventionGeneration Blog, the idea for the penguins came as a result of a visit to an art exhibit in Venice where several red penguins were being displayed. Upon noticing positive reactions to the penguins, eureka! The placement of penguins everywhere in the 21C enhances the already unique quality of this hotel wrapped around a vibrant art museum.  You can  get my take on the Louisville 21C, the first of what will hopefully be many more to come, from my post back in March 2011.

For a town of 35,000, Bentonville offers many ways to enjoy a unique blend of commerce, nature and simple small town pleasures. If American art is your thing, then Bentonville is your place. You can enjoy work from Audubon to Warhol by  taking about a twenty minute stroll from the 21C to Bentonville's  Crystal Bridges Museum, designed by international architect Moshe Safdie. There is actually a designated trail from the hotel to the museum. Funded by the Walton family, with a collection estimated at $488 million, this world class museum, with its sweeping curved metal roofs, polished concrete and locally harvested wood is designed to create an exceptional experience  surrounded by innovative architecture and art. And get this - It's free! That's right, due to the Walton endowment for operational costs, the museum is completely free to all. Though lunch in the glass walled restaurant, Eleven, is a bit pricey, it's a small price to pay to enjoy world class art for free. Finally, a stroll down one of the many art laden paths through the Arkansas woods is a great way to end the day for vagabonds desirous of enjoying nature and art at its best.

And after wandering around Bentonville or visiting the Crystal Bridges for an art filled afternoon, dining in is the recommended choice - The HIVE. This well appointed eatery showcases a unique blend of locally grown everything, which has come to be known, in some circles, as High South Cuisine. And do not skip dessert! As they say in some parts  - It don't git no better!
 

So the next time you want to get away, enjoy the sites and sleep and eat like a Nomad who refuses to settle, a trip to Bentonville will scratch that vagabond itch. And it won't break the bank.

d.l.Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

Next up - The ultimate side trip that brings architecture and the meaning of life into focus like few other places.


Travel Quote of The Week - "Live, Travel, Adventure, Bless and Don't Be Sorry" - Jack Kerouac

Video Artist of The Week - The son of an Arkansas farmer, he started out as the drummer and lead singer for The Band. Later in life, he became one of those voices that cuts through all the junk and makes you think about important things, better thing. Which he was still here - Levon Helm.