The Rabbits, the Pheasants, the Hill & the Dale - Sleeping in the Coolest Cabins on The Continent

After a full day of discovery from Edinburgh to The Natural Retreats in Yorkshire Dales with stops to look for Hadrian's Wall (Never Found It), exploring Kielder Forest and Water Park (A must see that I will post about another time) and getting lost and almost running out of gas, we arrived in the pastoral Yorkshire Dales, only four hours north of London. Upon arriving at the stone entrance to Natural Retreats, discovered while searching the internet for places a discriminating Nomad might find interesting, I was filled with great anticipation. This was the one place that we would stay that placed design front and center in the creation of this unique property.

Remember Watership Down, the fantasy about the world of Fiver and his fellow rabbits by British writer Richard Adams? As we drove down the gravel lane to our cabin, I  thought I was invading the warrens of the fabled North Hampshire Hill. Rabbits were everywhere!!  This was the first indication that we had arrived at a place that is completely off the well worn path of the typical tourist. Located in Yorkshire Dales National Park, Natural Retreats is surrounded by rolling hills and valleys, rivers and forests and diverse wildlife - pheasant, geese, birds of every color and the aforementioned rabbits. And it's less than a mile from the very cool little market town of Richmond with great restaurants and an organic grocer. A must if you stay here, as the cabins are self catering.

I have previously posted about how helpful the online concierge was when I was making the reservation. Well, the high level of service is seamless, once you arrive on site. Like most rural properties, there is no normal check-in process as in a hotel. We knew we were in Cabin No. 15, but that was about it. With excellent signage to guide us, we found our cabin quickly and the on site manager showed up as soon as we arrived. He assisted us with our luggage and explained all the various activities that were available to us at Natural Retreats, as well as where to eat in town and where to purchase groceries. We actually needed very little to supplement the welcome basket and stocked refrigerator complete with organic milk, local cheese, bread, eggs, a great local wine and homemade brownies to die for. He left his cell phone number in case we needed anything. Great service is always a hallmark of a great place for a Nomad to sleep.

One piece of advice that Rick Steves gives in his books is the need to have a "down day" and do absolutely nothing. Natural Retreats is the perfect place to do just that. First - the landscape is perfect for simply sitting and watching nature in all its beauty. Second, the cabins are a creative combination of minimalism and sustainable eco-design. With simple white walls, bamboo floors and a forty foot long sliding glass wall between the Living Area and a Monster Deck, it is the perfect place to read or just sit and enjoy. In addition, the roof is "green" with grasses and plant cover. Built with large round wood columns for support, the design is simple and elegant. And it's large enough so that every one gets there own space. I would highly recommend this place for families or couples as it has three identical "suites" with their own bathroom. And if you don't want to just sit and enjoy the view, you can walk along the many trails and it is a nature photographer's dream.

A word here about the concept behind these unique properties. On their well designed and easy to use website, Natural Retreats invites you to "Discover the Luxury of Nature". Based on our experience at Yorkshire Dales, this is not just a marketing slogan. The concept of placing luxurious accommodations in the midst of beautiful natural environments is not new. What is new is the idea of placing utterly modern design in such locations. These are not log cabins or glamping. These places have all the comforts of a five star hotel. High thread count sheets on soft, comfortable beds, rain showers, killer stereo systems and modern kitchens with all the utensils and cookware you need to be Giada, Nigella or Paula. They have recently added a property in the states on the Snake River in Idaho, which I have placed on my  list of  Must Sleep Places for Nomads. In this world of over selling and hyper-hyping, it is refreshing to experience something that exceeds all expectations. Natural Retreats at Yorkshire Dales meets all the criteria to place it on The Nomad Architect's Places to Sleep Before You Die.

And what about the food? Because we arrived in mid afternoon, we decided to eat in town our first night. With a complete directory of local restaurants provided by Natural Retreats and a recommendation from the on site manager, we decided to check out a local Italian restaurant in Richmond. Once again, we were pleasantly surprised - excellent food and wine and great service. When you study the history of England, you will discover that the Romans settled in Britain as early as 55 BC. One can only surmise that this is the reason for so many excellent Italian Restaurants in the UK. As I said, Natural Retreats is a "self catering" property, so you are probably going to cook some while you are there. With a full gourmet kitchen at our disposal, I drove into Richmond to supplement our well stocked welcome basket and refrigerator with items to prepare for our remaining meals. After finding a small organic grocer, I purchased most of the items on our list and found some pre-prepared gourmet meals at a larger grocer in an adjacent town. When you have been married to a bona fide

So - if you ever travel across the pond - check out this very cool set of eco-cabins only four hours north of London - The Natural Retreats in The Yorkshire Dales National Park. You'll thank me for it.

Travel Quote of The Week
"The traveler was active; he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience. The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him. He goes sight-seeing." -  Daniel J. Boorstin

This Week's Video Artist
A True Jazz Legend - one of the true greats in the world of jazz piano, performance and composition - the intense and incomparable Chick Corea.

See you soon

DLS thenomadARCHITECT

After Wales I Didn't Think It Could Get Any Better - But Then There Was Keswick , Howe Keld and The Lakes

After sleeping and eating at the Cross Foxes Hotel - and marking it down as an absolute Nomad Keeper - we headed north through Snowdowdonia towards our destination for the night in the very small, very hip, very non-tourist village of Keswick. As we were driving through Northern Wales back into England, I was struck by the beauty and diversity of the countryside in the UK - and water is everywhere!! It seemed like a river, lake, stream or waterfall was around every bend as we wound our way through the UK's largest national park.

Another note here about driving in England. I highly recommend searching out the back roads for obvious reasons - less traffic, more interesting scenery and the occasional serendipitous adventure into the unknown - and if you are a slow driver - you will not be well liked on ANY highway, large or small. Of course that worked fine for me, since I consider speed limits to be a minor inconvenience intended for other drivers. As we got closer to Keswick, we had to traverse the M6 Motorway. We did get to see the Irish Sea, albeit from a distance. The point is - getting there is half the fun - so go where nobody else is going - you'll thank me later!

Back to Keswick and The Lakes. Keswick has everything you want in a small village. Great old buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, great little shops and friendly people. What it does not have is a lot of tourists. This makes it a perfect stop for anyone who wants to enjoy the vibe of a small English town without the usual kitsch in every other storefront. However, Lake Derwentwater is the star of Keswick. Surrounded by wooded fells, it is one of the major bodies of water in The Lakes District National Park.

Upon checking into the recently renovated and very well appointed Howe Keld B&B, it became very apparent that the old school of B&B's with the bath down the hall and chintz curtains most people associate with England, is being replaced by places like The Howe Keld with a new, modern clean design, a killer bathroom and all the accouterments you would expect in a small high quality hotel. And the personal attention afforded us by the owner and his staff was five star caliber. From the efficient check-in to the great breakfast in the well appointed, light filled dining room, the service was excellent and always delivered with a smile. It was great to talk with the owner about the new design and renovations that have been completed to put this small hotel on the map. With design touches like locally designed and built furniture and beds to die for, Howe Keld is just the kind of place that any Nomad is looking for.

After getting settled in, we decided to to take a walk through the woods along the lake to Friar's Crag, a promontory overlooking this intensely beautiful body of water. Historians tell us the name came about because it was the point of embarkment for monks making a pilgrimage to Saint Herbert's Island, located south west of the crag. In addition to its beauty and peacefulness, the crag is also known for it's association with the art critic, social thinker, poet and artist John Ruskin, who once said that Keswick was almost too beautiful to live in. There is a stone sculpture to commemorate the bond between this lovely lakeside village and this observer and chronicler of art, history and social theory. In addition to the lake, the village and the hotel, there are many other things to do while in this very cool little lakeside town. The Theatre By The Lake is the area's only year round professional theatre. Other items on the To Do List include The Keswick Film Festival in February, The Literature Festival in March and The Keswick Jazz Festival in May.

After returning from our walk along the storied Lake Derentwater, we returned to our room and asked the owner where we might eat. His recommendation for a small restaurant, only a ten minute walk from the hotel, would be the culinary highlight of our tour of Great Britain. I have always felt that the best source for what to do, where to eat, places to go, etc. is the person who runs the hotel you are are staying in. First, they are local. Second, they get continual feedback, good and bad, from other guests. His recommendation, A Different Taste, a small bistro that seats about thirty, was exactly what the doctor ordered to finish the great day we had exploring Keswick and its environs. When we first arrived, there was only one couple in the place, so we were a little concerned. Well, an hour later, that concern proved to be utterly unfounded, as it became packed with other diners who know where to eat in Keswick.  From the appetizer to the main course, we all agreed - A Different Taste was an absolute member of the Nomad's Well Designed Road Food Hall of Fame. With a menu that changes daily, everything is prepared with fresh, local ingredients by a top chef and served by an exceptional staff.

After dinner, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll back to the hotel which brings to me to the single most important aspect of any hotel - the bed. Travel can be a very intense, physically demanding experience. Walking everywhere, climbing stairs and mountains or roaming around some ancient ruin can make a body tired. This means that the bed you sleep in must be comfortable in order to allow quality R&R for the stalwart Nomad. With exceptionally comfortable beds,  Howe Keld makes sure that when your head hits the pillow, you are going to have nothing but sweet dreams until morning. After a relaxing night of sleep, we were treated to an outstanding breakfast served by a friendly, efficient staff in the intimate dining room.

So there you have it - The Third Leg of our UK Tour. Great hotel, great food and a great location in one of the most charming and beautiful areas of the realm. Next up - Scotland and the beautiful urban enclave of Edinburgh.

This Week's Video Artist - Prince - This uniquely gifted performer combines old school R&B and funk with pop, jazz and rock to create great music- always controversial and hip to the max - Enjoy.

DLS

thenomadARCHITECT

Travel Quote of The Week - "One certainty when you travel is the moment you arrive in a foreign country, the American dollar will fall like a stone". Erma Bombeck (Editor's Note - I have said it before - Insanely true in Great Britain)

The Cotswolds - I Never Knew I Could Like Quaint So Much

I am finally writing about our UK trip after returning almost two weeks ago. I tend to ponder my travels upon return and over analyze said travels to the point of obsession, instead of just enjoying the memories, the photographs and the remembrances of the laughter and the unexpected things that make traveling such an adventure. And, even though this blog is primarily about the design and sense of place that hotels do or do not have, you really can't separate those places from all of the other activities and scenes played out in a faraway and strange land.

Although the source cannot be confirmed, somebody British - Winston Churchill, George Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde - said "Britain and America are divided by a common language". Well, after our trip, I would add a weak dollar and an insane exchange rate to that quote. Simply said, England is the most expensive place on earth and London is the most expensive city in the universe!!! However, it is possible to enjoy this great country's history, it's people and it's culture without breaking the bank, but you have to do your homework  BEFORE you go and then be willing to follow that road less traveled.

So, here we go - The Cotswolds - Where Quaint is A Way of Life

After spending a wonderful night at The Remont and enjoying the great food Oxford had to offer, we headed out for Chipping Campden in the Cotswolds. The Cotswolds is the most English of any area of England. And Chipping Campden is the most intensely English of all places English in England. It has it all. Narrow cobbled lanes, small shops, organic and ancient plazas, flowers everywhere and a central market square make it an interesting place to stroll and enjoy the day. As we arrived at the outskirts, the beautiful day revealed a storybook like place rendered from a John Constable painting.

We spent most of the morning leisurely strolling through this enchanting little town. It seemed that every turn brought some interesting, unique element into view. After purchasing some snacks in a small grocery store for the road trip to Wales,  I noticed something. Where were all the thatched roofs? I asked a gentleman at the travel office where I could find these uniquely British architectural  creations I had come to expect after reading every travel book from Rick Steves to Karen Brown. The gentleman explained that many of the "great thatches" have disappeared, but directed us to an area in Chipping Campden where we might see some of these quintessential English architectural  gems.

After making several U-turns and side trips, we happened on some classic thatched roofed houses of extraordinary character. I was struck by the artistry and detail of this most human of architectural constructions. Borne out of a need to create a cheap roofing alternative in the countryside, thatched roofs have become a symbol of affluence in today's modern England. As you would expect, the history of Thatching is long and interesting. If you don't think it's interesting, reading about it is a great cure for insomnia. Some houses in England have base thatched roofs over five hundred years old. How's that for durability?

As we loaded up for the drive to Wales, we said goodbye to - Well, let's just say - If you don't like quaint, stay away from The Cotswolds.

In the next post, we'll take you on the first leg through Southern England and Central Wales. Katherine Hepburn said that Wales was the most beautiful place on earth. After this trip, I can see why she came to that conclusion. So stay tuned - you don't want to miss it!

Travel Quote of The Day
"I had a prejudice against the British until I discovered that fifty percent of them were female.” – Raymond Floyd

Until Then - Steady On

DLS - The Nomad Architect

 This Week's Featured Video Artist is the incomparable James Taylor. In a future post, I will be discussing great Road Trip Music. His double CD - James Taylor Live - is an absolute must to have on anyone's music list for highly improved car travel.