Italy has Tuscany. France has Provence. Among other things, the enchantment of Provence gave rise to an account of two transplanted Brits who moved to a small village in The Luberon region of Southeastern France. A Year In Provence is a witty and heartfelt account of two expats and their dogs living in one of Europe's most intriguing places. Provence is a place where you can experience the eclectic nature and simplicity of country living and small towns where French/Provencal culture has been cultivated and maintained with unbridled and unapologetic passion. Today's post picks up where I left you after a three day stay in the very cool, very funky hotel/B&B created by an architect and and artist in the heart of Provence in the City of Popes - Avignon (See Lumani - An eclectic oasis created by an architect and artist in the City of Popes-Magnifique!! posted on 08/07/12).
No Planes Thank you - Just Trains & Automobiles
After riding on air from Paris to Avignon via high speed rail, we rented a car for our road trip through this beautiful region of France with human habitation dating back to prehistory. With typical cruising speeds in excess of 180 miles an hour, in comfortable, roomy seating compartments, you learn two things. One - train travel, at least in Europe, is by far, the superior way to get from anywhere to anywhere and Two - You hate Delta even more than you did before. Even though we would have preferred to travel everywhere by train, the reality of travel in the countryside requires a car. And, it provides flexibility to stop and see things that you stumble upon, especially in a country as rich in cultural must sees as Provence.
After saying our goodbyes to Jean, the architect, and Elisabeth, the artist we headed towards our next destination, La Bastide de Marie, a converted farm house in the heart of Provencal Wine Country. One of the great things about travel in Europe is its size. Because the countries are much smaller than the US, you can actually travel very short distances to experience vast changes in geography, culture and people. Since our hotel was only two hours from Avignon, we decided to take the slow road through the countryside and enjoy the place up close and personal. Just outside the village of Baux de Provence, we stumbled upon one of the most intriguing museums ever created. Now the French love their art. And this "museum" is proof positive that they can create places for art that defy the guidebooks. And our serendipitous discovery of this particular museum, located in the countryside of one of the most intriguing regions of Europe, proves what we are always saying on this blog. You simply must get off the beaten path to find those less well know places that inform and delight all restless Nomads.
Picasso and Copland Underground
As we rounded a curve heading into Les Baux de Provence, we came upon a small parking area with people milling about, apparently on their way to something. After stopping and inspecting the area further we discovered it. Cathedrale D'Images. This "Museum" was in the most unlikely of places. An abandoned limestone quarry. There in front of us was a former rock quarry that had been converted into one of the most unique presentations of art and music one will ever experience. As we paid the fee and entered this amazing place, you could here music filling the huge spaces left by years of quarrying stone. Everywhere we looked, multiple images were projected on virtually every floor, wall and ceiling surface. All constantly changing in location, size and scope. Some of the massive "rooms" in this dark, cool place towered over sixty feet in height while extending over a hundred feet in length. Immersed in this unique subterranean collection of interconnecting spaces, the visual experience of a fifty foot high Picasso slowly changing to another painting or image, all to the accompaniment of classical music from Beethoven to Copland, was hypnotic. As we pondered multiple images of masters of the art world in the darkness, guided only by the cast off light from projected images, we gained an entirely new appreciation for the meaning of art and its uplifting impact on us as people. Unfortunately, this unique contribution to the art world has closed, but knowing the French and their love of art, rest assured this closure will be temporary.
Even though we could have stayed forever in the Cathedrale D'Images, we had to leave to get to our destination for the evening. After stumbling upon this unique place of discovery, we both agreed that, while we loved The Louvre and its Mona Lisa, the French do, indeed, know how to take art appreciation, quite literally, to the next level.
You do not want to miss next week's post on our second destination in Provence, La Bastide de Marie, a converted farmhouse like no other with French cooking that will make you cry - and I mean that in a good way.
Video Artist of The Week - The Modern Jazz Quartet - One of the greatest jazz quartets ever. Old school modern jazz at its best. One critic has called them the perfect rhythm section with a vibe. This is music to sit back and enjoy with your best friends and the one you love.
Travel Quote of The Week - "Our architect, an expatriate Parisian, had warned us that building in Provence was very similar to trench warfare, with long periods of boredom interrupted by bursts of violent and noisy activity," - Peter Mayle from the book A Year In Provence.
After a three minute conversation with the manager of The Blackstone Hotel just off Lake Michigan, I was assured that the hotel was everything that was described in various travel guides to Chicago. This included its history as a renown hotel for the rich and famous, movers and shakers and glitterati of the 20's, 30's, 40's, 50's, ad nauseam. It also included my question concerning the final sentence in the description in one particular travel book, which stated that the upper floors were inhabited by The Transcendental Meditation Foundation, or at least a branch, founded by a really famous guy, the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, spiritual guru to the likes of John Lennon & The Fab Four. According to followers, Transcendental Meditation is "the march of the mind to its unbounded essence". I once knew a guy who practiced TM every day. Very strange. My direct question to the voice on the other end was - This place isn't weird is it? To which she replied - Oh no sir, the "TM" floors are completely separate from the lower floors of the hotel and, as you know, the hotel is one of the most famous in all of Chicago. Note to self - In the absence of overwhelming evidence that a particular hotel is not just old - If it was built in 1909 and at least seven presidents slept there - run don't walk!
Keep in mind that this trip to Chicago was taken before the internet, or at least before Google, so one depended on travel books and other sources for hotel information. And, this Beaux Arts beauty has since been purchased, completely renovated and re-opened as a Marriott Renaissance Property in 2008. Presumably, things have improved. I'll let you know if I ever stay there. However, as to our visit, none of the travel books we used got the memo on The Blackstone. After the phone call with the very nice lady, I just kept telling myself and my wife - Presidents from Harding to JFK have stayed there. Monroe, Hepburn, Capone, Ike!! It must be good - right? Read on.
After a quick train ride on the 'L' from O'hare, we took a short cab ride from the train station to the famous and what was soon to be - infamous Blackstone Hotel. As we pulled up, the first thing I noticed was the torn awning in front of the vintage Beaux Arts facade. In addition, I saw a large contingent of high school kids with all manner of horns, drums and uniforms. My experience has been that when you combine a torn awning with a large contingent of teenagers, with band instruments, who are also guests, the hotel is probably not on any "Nomad's Places To Sleep Before You Die List". Nonetheless, we gathered our luggage and headed into the lobby. As we passed by a young woman dressed in white linen from head to toe, sitting barefoot on the grand staircase staring into space, I started to think that maybe the lady on the phone was not completely candid. Then, as we entered the lobby, it hit us.The heat!! The lobby was a balmy 78 degrees. But that was OK since, directly behind the front desk, there was a very, very large pedestal fan with wind speeds north of 20 mph to cool patron and staff alike. As we checked in, I was beginning to get that sinking feeling that we were playing movie roles in a very dark comedy. It's funny to watch but not particularly humorous to actually be in the movie.
The Room, The Phantom & Joe Pesci
One of the many features listed in various travel books was the "complete" renovation of this 1909 grand dame of the privileged set of yesteryear. After check in, we stepped off the elevator into what appeared to be a wholly renovated space. New carpet, some new paint and air conditioning. The hot, humid lobby and the strange people hanging around started to fade into memory. However, as we quickly found out, the "renovation" stopped at the threshold of the door to our room. When the door opened , I could actually hear the soundtrack from Planes,Trains and Automobiles when Neal and Del checked into the El Rancho. Old floors, old rugs, very old bed and "vintage" bathroom fixtures. Interior design circa 1975 was the over arching theme. Motel Six with ten foot ceilings. After inspecting the room and the bathroom, I said to my wife - At least it's clean.
Since the hour was late, and we had dinner reservations and tickets to see The Phantom of The Opera that evening, we stashed our stuff and decided to clean up for the evening on the town. As I was sorting through my stuff, I heard my wife say - "Come here, you have to see this". As I walked into the bathroom, I discovered the real world meaning of "vintage" as rusty water flowed out of the faucet. However, rather than panic, we patiently waited for the water to clear up, which, thankfully, it did. As we were getting dressed, I decided to turn the TV on to see if we could get some info on the comings and goings in Chicago Land. There was a slight problem. I quickly discovered the volume knob did not work. And it was very, very loud. When I answered a knock at the door to find a sixteen year old tuba player politely asking me to turn the volume down, I had to explain to him that that was not possible. To be accommodating, I simply turned the violating box off and enjoyed the sounds of tubas, trumpets, clarinets, etc. wafting throughout the hotel. I think the entire band was on our floor. How special.
As we headed out to dinner and a fabulous production of Phantom, the travail of The Blackstone quickly faded. Upon returning after our night on the town, I told my wife I was going downstairs to rustle up a coke. This frozen in time hotel had no vending machines of any kind. However, I was in luck. The "diner" just off the lobby was still open or so I thought. As I walked up to the counter to order a coke, the man behind the counter said they were closed. Rats, I thought! I am really thirsty. Then out of the corner of my eye, I saw a small group of black leather jacket clad guys that could only be described as Goodfellows. The "made guy" of the group, a Joe Pesci look-a-like, says to the bartender - Yo, Give da man his coke - no chaage! I said thanks, took my free coke and quickly returned to the room with the loud, now silenced TV and squeaky bed and finally fell asleep.
We Gotta Get Out Of This Place, If It's The Last Thing We Ever Do!
I awoke early, found the phone book and began perusing for alternate digs. There it was, glowing on the yellow page. A possible place of refuge. A short cab ride just around the corner - The Hyatt On Printer's Row. I quickly dialed the phone and presto! They did indeed have a room. We packed, checked out and said our goodbyes to The Blackstone and Mr. Yogi and his minions. As we arrived and checked into our new, well designed and appointed home away for home, I was pleasantly surprised to find a small boutique hotel located in the heart of the big city. This very well detailed hotel did not disappoint and provided us a welcomed change from the previous night's stay at the ancient Blackstone. In the interest of full disclosure, The Hyatt On Printer's Row has since become a Wyndham property and, as such, I cannot vouch for its current status. Although the reviews I have read are quite good. As we enjoyed the rest of our stay in the greatest architectural city in America, Chicago became my favorite American City. We have been back many times to the stomping grounds of some of the world's greatest architects and some of the most stunning buildings in the world. The Art Institute of Chicago is a must see for art lovers and The Auditorium Theatre, the masterpiece designed byDankmar Adlar and Louis Sullivan, is home to the world renown Joffrey Ballet. And if highbrow is not your cup of tea, check out the comedy troupe Second City. It will bring tears of uncontrollable laughter.
After three days in the big city at the very cool Hyatt On Printer's Row, we headed back to Florida with great memories we still laugh about today. As my travel companion - Susie, you remember Susie - is fond of saying - "Bad Beginnings, Good Endings". A woman of few, yet wise words, indeed!
Video Artist of The Week - Who better to represent Chicago than the rock band with horns - Chicago. After four decades and numerous personnel changes, this great band is still recording and touring. I wore out Chicago Transit Authority in college.
Travel Quote of The Week - I have struck a city- a real city- and they call it Chicago......I urgently desire never to see it again. It is inhabited by savages. Rudyard Kipling -Hmm - Must have stayed at the Blackstone!!
As we watched Big Sur fade in the rear view, we wandered aloud if we should have just stayed another three days and check out San Francisco and its environs on a later trip. Staying in a place like Big Sur really does change your perception of what travel is supposed to be. All Nomads are looking for that one place, that one town or hilltop or little house on the beach where we know we could stay forever and never need anything but the air, water and sustenance of that one place. Big Sur is that kind of place. It completely validates the whole idea of the art of doing nothing, only with great views. But, like all True Nomads, we decided to press on to see if San Francisco, The Golden Gate and the famed Napa Valley could live up to the hype. The drive from Carmel up The Coastal Highway through the beach towns of Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay took us out of the rocky coastal landscape of Big Sur into a more gentle, pastoral one with numerous easy stops to enjoy the California coast.
With great expectations, we picked up California Highway One just outside of Half Moon Bay, for the one hour ride into San Francisco. Just south of San Francisco (and here is where you need a good map or Smart Phone) we picked up US-101 and made several small detours as we wound our way through the neighborhoods of The City By The Bay. And then, their it was. The Golden Gate!! I was utterly transfixed by this amazing work of architecture. The scale of this massive feat of engineering was almost beyond comprehension. And then I remembered all of those books I had read and all of those documentaries I had watched and understood why it is listed as a modern Wonder of the World by the American Society of Civil Engineers. While there are other bridges throughout the world that are longer and higher, none capture the poetry of steel spanning a great body of water quite like The Golden Gate. Spanning 4,200 feet, this fascinating structure was built in four years, opened in 1937 and cost $1.4 billion in today's dollars. And, just in case you are interested, the bridge is not gold but orange vermilion or "international red". According to oneGolden Gate Bridge Web Site, Consulting Architect Irving Morrow selected the distinctive orange color because - "it blends well with the span's natural setting as it is a warm color consistent with the warm colors of the land masses in the setting as distinct from the cool colors of the sky and sea. It also provides enhanced visibility for passing ships. If the U.S. Navy had its way, the Bridge might have been painted black and yellow stripes to assure even greater visibility for passing ships." It always takes an architect to make a thing go right!
And Where Will We Stay Tonight My Dear?
In keeping with our theme of zero planning for this adventure, we had, once again, failed to make a reservation, and the hour was growing late so we headed in the general direction of Fisherman's Wharf, only a few minutes drive from the southern access to the bridge, to hustle up a room. As luck would have it, we stumbled on a sweet little hotel in the middle of Fisherman's Wharf just off the main tourist tread way. This method of finding hotels on the fly was starting to become a habit. We lucked into The Tuscan Inn, a small, little boutique number with well appointed rooms, great staff and an afternoon wine and cheese tasting that made our stay complete. The front desk made various dining recommendations and they did not disappoint. If you are a foodie, you cannot go wrong in San Francisco. It's a lot like New Orleans - you really can't get a bad meal. After a great meal at a small restaurant on the wharf, we walked back to our little bit if Italy in the big city and had a restful night for the big events of the next day.
After a great breakfast in the hotel, we headed back to the Golden Gate. Like any architect, I wanted to experience this great vehicle and people mover up close and personal. As we pulled into the parking lot at Fort Point Park located at the southern end of the bridge, I could sense my fellow Nomad - you remember Susie, the love of my life - getting nervous. My intrepid travel companion adores solid ground and has never expressed any interest in high places, no matter how elegantly designed they may be. After some cajoling, she agreed to make the trek across the great span. But, alas, it was not to be. She bailed about a hundred yards in. But she could say that she did, indeed, walk the Golden Gate. After watching her head back to the park, I continued on to the middle of the span of this marvelous piece of engineering art. The experience confirmed that great design renders our world a better place. And to think the day had just started. After my walk in the clouds we jumped in the car and headed north on US 101 across the great bridge towards a natural wonder where man takes a back seat. After seeing one of the great man made artifacts on earth, we drove a quick thirty minutes to the beautiful Muir Woods National Monument
After our tranquil hike through the Muir Woods, we headed back to Fisherman's Wharf and caught the tour ferry to the infamous Alcatraz Island. The Rock no less. I did not see Sean Connery or Ed Harris or even Nicholas Cage. Oh wait, those guys were in the movie. What I did see was an excellent example of Creepy Architecture comprised of a massive group of very bad buildings designed to keep very bad guys locked up . How enlightening! After about two hours of a guided tour, it was nice to head back to the hotel, check in with the afternoon taste test and prepare for another great meal on the town.
Coppola & The Rubicon
Day three - Destination Napa Valley. Specifically, The Niebaum-Coppola/Rubicon/Inglenook Winery - the place owned by Nicholas Cage's uncle - the iconic movie director Francis Ford Coppola. On the trip to Napa, we were treated to yet another example of the diversity of California. As we headed back across the Golden Gate for a day in America's renowned wine region, we were treated to another California must see -Sausalito. Anchored at the northern end of the Golden Gate, Sausalito is a small waterfront houseboat community of about 7,500 residents. Like all waterfront communities, this residential flotilla runs the gamut of stylish and stylized houseboats from the McMansion to the Macabre. A trip to this truly unique place is a must for The Nomad visiting the bay area. But we had more important things to do, so our stay among the rich, alternative living set was short. Napa and The Rubicon were beckoning.
As we arrived on the finely etched gravel drive at the Niebaum-Coppola Winery, we felt transported into a world that could only exist in California, France or Italy. The Chateau, which was purchased as part of the 1250 acre estate by Coppola in 1975, has been impeccably restored. In addition to the main building, the winery has many other natural and man made features which make it the perfect place to enjoy the essence of a great wine making enterprise. It's history, starting with the original founder Gustav Niebaum, a wealthy businessman who had a passion for wine making, through its current iteration as The Inglenook Winery is long and storied. It must be noted that the winery was named Niebaum-Coppola in 1975, renamed The Rubicon in 2003 and finally named Inglenook in 2011. But we were there for the wine and the food. And let's just say, it was all good. In addition to The Inglenook, we leisurely visited other wineries, both large and small, soaking up the culture of this unique place along the way. Realizing that our California sojourn was coming to a close, we reluctantly headed back to our hotel late to pack for an early drive back to LA the next morning.
And All Good Things Must Come To An End
It's inevitable. Post Trip Depression. It started the second we hit the I-80 East connector to I-5 South to LAX. Because of time, we had to take I-5, which cuts a swath north to south through the middle of California all the way to the Mexican Border. The highlight of this final road trip was the monster windmills that seem to go on forever as if we were entering some futuristic 1970's bad sci-fi movie. As we began the slow decent back into the real world of bad airlines and long waits, we took comfort in the knowledge that we had memories to last a life time.
Video of The Week - This week, I decided to link some trailers & scenes from the great little movie Bottle Shock about the story of the early days of California wine making featuring the now infamous, blind Paris wine tasting of 1976 that has come to be known as "Judgment of Paris". Starring Alan Rickman, Bill Pullman and Chris Pine, it's a must see movie.
Travel Quote of The Week - The True Nomad's Credo - "Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it." - Ferris Bueller from the eternally classic comedy film Ferris Beuller's Day Off.
Last we spoke, we were heading north to one of America's most beautiful and romantic destinations - Big Sur. After settling in for the two hour plus drive, we began to drink in the visual perfection that makes this enchanting part of America so unique. With every cliff hanging curve, surf pounding inlet and cascading rock formation, we were reminded of the grace and beauty of nature at its best. As an architect, I have spent most of my life dealing with issues of design and the built environment. Having said that, one must acknowledge those forward thinking nature lovers, explorers and even political leaders who managed to create the national parks, state parks and monuments for places like Big Sur where man is asked to tread lightly. Without those efforts, condos would be hung from every precipice with a view!! Frank Lloyd Wright said that he found great inspiration in The Grand Canyon. Upon seeing the work rendered by nature at Big Sur and the Central Coast of California , you come to realize - no matter how great the genius, any man made design pales when measured against God's earthly creations found in this enclave of natural splendor.
As the long and winding road took us closer to Carmel, we realized that we had absolutely no idea where we were going to stay for the night. Like all travelers during the Pre-Google/Internet Search days, we had a stack of dog eared, highlighted books on California and its many regions, hotels and eateries from LA to San Francisco. But for some reason, we had not really planned much of an itinerary. Normally, I do not recommend this approach, since, you may end up in a Motel Six for the night, especially in places as heavily visited as the Central California Coast. As luck would have it, my Co-Nomad and life mate, Susie, turned to the page with a Hyatt Resort listed in The Carmel Highlandson the northern tip of Big Sur. I would like to think she found this place as a result of a thorough and highly evolved system of travel research, but, in reality, it was just one of those random, serendipitous occurrences that yielded results beyond our wildest imaginings. I mean, what are the chances of finding a killer hotel in Big Sur, California in the middle of the summer, only four hours before check in? It also helps that Susie, aka Karen Sue, is an avid reader and remembers the most mundane details from every book she has ever read, including travel books. She is also an excellent navigator and sign reader, even though she takes great pride in NOT being able to read a map. It defies explanation, but it's the truth. Without my soul mate, who has stumbled through life with me for thirty nine years, I would still be figuratively and quite literally - lost!
I know what you are thinking. Wait a minute- this guy is always trashing big hotels and particularly chains - so how can he possibly be talking about actually staying at a Hyatt? Well - all chains are not created equal. Our history with Hyatt has always been very positive, particularly after staying in a very small boutique property in Chicago with a killer on-site restaurant some years earlier. So, given the late hour, we dialed the hotel direct. A very nice young lady informed us, amazingly, that they did indeed, have a room. Now that we had snagged a room on a Sunday afternoon, no less, in one of the most desired destinations for Nomads of every ilk, we slowed down even more, stopped at every nook and cranny to take in the beautiful views as we crawled along the most famous scenic drive in America. Just inside the area known as Big Sur, we stopped at a small roadside store of vintage "this place is really old" design, bought some road food, and found a place to rest and appreciate the simple pleasures one can experience when one travels like a True Nomad. In this environment, cheese crackers and Boone's Farm Elderberry would have fit the bill.
Over the years, the vibe of Big Sur has been enticing to artists, writers and other creative types. Such luminaries as Henry Miller, Hunter S. Thompson and Jack Kerouac have resided here and produced many works while in residence. In addition, the area has served as a backdrop in numerous big studio and indie films, including The Sandpiper starring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. It has also been home to all manner of off the grid - or off the wall - places of religious thought, contemplation and new age philosophies, including a Catholic Monastery, The Esalen Institute and Tassajara Zen Mountain Center, a Buddhist Monastery . With only about a thousand permanent residents, this sparsely populated corner of Eden is comprised roughly of a ninety by twenty mile wide strip of coastline from Ragged Point in the south to Carmel in the north. Only the very wealthy can afford to live there, as real estate is sold by the square foot. One 1,200 square foot house is currently on the market for a cool seven million! But ridiculous real estate prices and strange, new age philosophies could not keep this Nomad and his bride from relishing the incomparable beauty of this little part of heaven on earth. As we continued north for the short drive to Carmel, I thought to myself - If I ever win the lottery, I am definitely moving here.
The Hyatt Carmel Highlands is a scant fifteen minutes south of the very artsy and very wealthy coastal town of Carmel By The Sea. Besides having world class art, extremely wealthy residents and many restaurants, B&B's and shops where you can spend your hard earned money, Carmel boasts having Clint Eastwood as a former mayor. Only in California does Dirty Harry get to run the town. Because of its location, The Highlands feels as though it is the only place on earth from which to observe the comings and goings of the natural world and the Pacific Ocean. Upon arrival, we were upgraded to a full suite with direct views of the pounding surf below. By American standards, with only forty eight rooms and suites, The Highlands is a pretty small place. With exquisite wood detailing and intimate public spaces, the feel is more like a retreat or lodge than a hotel. In addition, it is designed "into" the landscape, so you are completely surrounded by the best that nature has to offer. And, as you would expect from a five star property, the rooms are impeccably decorated with no detail left to chance. Sleeping with our doors open to enjoy the sublime climate of this mountainous coastal place and waking the next morning to enjoy nothing but the sunrise and the sounds of giant seals on the coast from our private deck proved that serendipity is, indeed, a good thing. As you would expect, the on-site restaurants are second to none. Whether you choose the the sushi grade sea bass at the Pacific's Edge for dinner or the "make your own" omelet on the deck of the more casual California Market, you will not be disappointed. And both restaurants have views of the Pacific to die for.
So there you have it. Big Sur. The land. The sea. The mountains. And, most of all, the spirit of this special place and our stay in a world class boutique retreat made this middle leg of our coastal California sojourn No. 1 On TheNomad's List of Places To See, Eat, Sleep and Experience before you die.
Next week - the final leg to The Golden Gate, Muir Woods and Napa Valley.
This Week's Video Artist - The Beach Boys. Who better to capture the essence of the pop culture that defines the west coast than America's Band? From Surfin' in 1961 to Pet Sounds and Good Vibrations, this innovative rock/pop band has been on our radio dials for over fifty years!
Travel Quote of The Week - "There is science, logic, reason; there is thought verified by experience. And then there is California – Edward Abbey
California. Pick your image. From movies, books, tabloids and every source imaginable, no place has been written about, dreamed of and experienced more by young and old, rich and poor and good and bad than the State of California. It is more diverse geographically and culturally than any state in the Union. It is the birthplace of American Cinema, Sixties Counter Culture and one of the greatest wine producing regions in the world. California has given us the Beach Boys, The Doors, Silicon Valley and Frank Gerry. Yes, California has it all - from the sublime to the utterly ridiculous. Traveling in The Golden State is, more or less, like a Hitchcock Film - You know you are going to be delighted and scared and you cannot resist it. If you don't think you can get scared in California, just get lost in South Central LA at night!
LA - City of Angels Or Insanity On Parade?
Landing at LAX, you can see The Theme Building. According to Wikipedia "It opened in 1961, and is an example of the mid-century modern influenced design school known as "Googie" or "Populuxe." The distinctive white building resembles a flying saucer that has landed on its four legs.It was designed by a team of architects and engineers headed by William Pereira and Charles Luckman, that also included Paul Williams and Welton Becket". This iconic building gives one the sense of the futuristic promise of Los Angeles. Given the current state of affairs in California, that is a very tough sell. There is diverse and then there is just cultural rot. The only real good thing about LA is the weather. And even that can be hard to come by, given the pollution and environmental disaster that man has wrought in this city of thirty seven million. To put it another way - LA has an average of 7,000 lost souls per square mile! Even if you are not good at math - you get the picture. I am convinced the angels finally left this year when they passed a law against throwing a frisbee on the beach! To paraphrase Dennis Miller - LA is what happens when morons take over. From the twelve lane highways to the endless panorama of "ugly little boxes" in moribund subdivisions, LA, for me, only exists as a forced layover to somewhere else.
However - There Are Needles In That LA Haystack
Even though my stays in LA have been, by design, short, I can attest that there are architectural jewels hidden away in various areas. Because The Left Coast has always embraced American design innovation, many iconic architects have worked there , including such luminaries as John Lautner, Frank Lloyd Wright, Rudolph Schindler and Richard Neutra. All ground breaking innovators who paved the way for the what the current architectural press refers to as Mid Century Modern (MCM). During a brief stopover in the boiling pot, I happened upon an amazing house designed by ground breaking architect John Lautner. Driving around LA, I literally stumbled upon The Wolff House. Built in 1961, this cliff hanging house in the Hollywood Hills was being renovated and I was afforded a rare opportuniity to walk through a work of art in progress. After spending about three hours freely wandering, I came away inspired and somewhat intimidated by what was clearly a masterpiece by one of the true masters of modern residential architecture. Unfortunately, you can only view the house from the street today, unless you are brave enough to knock on the door and ask to take a peek.
Other must sees of great design include The Ennis House andLa Miniatura (Alice Millard House) by Wright and The Pavilion For Japanese Art by the fantastical organic architect Bruce Goff. And no trip to Los Angeles can be considered complete without a visit to The Getty Center, designed by Pritzker Prize winning Architect Richard Meyer. The experience of riding the quiet, pristine monorail up to the summit of this world class museum with views of all of LA, as well as the Pacific coast, transforms you mentally and physically from the pedestrian/car infested world of an urban metropolis into an environment of intensely designed indoor and outdoor spaces for viewing and appreciating world class art from The Ancients to Futuristic Modernism. I recommend staying late and dining in the hilltop Restaurant. The glass enclosed space affords unequalled night views of the teaming city below.
One Side Trip & Taking The Road To Big Sur
Before heading north to Big Sur - also known as paradise, I highly recommend a quick side trip to a piece of architectural design that is worth the roughly one hour trip to a dreamy section of the southern California Coast in Rancho Palos Verdes - The Wayfarer's Chapel. Also known as The Glass Church, the geometrically inspired organic design, by the son of Frank Lloyd Wright, Lloyd Wright, is sited seamlessly within the natural landscape of southern California and built into the cliffs above the Pacific Ocean. As you would expect, it is immensely popular for weddings and other gatherings. It embodies that rare blend of architecture and purpose by creating a space that is architecturally beautiful and spiritually enlightening. After visiting this intimate place of worship, take time to find one of the many small eateries in and around Rancho Palos Verdes for some Nomadic Sustenance before heading north to Big Sur - one of the last unspoiled places of incomparable beauty left in California.
Unless you love driving for six hours non stop, I highly recommend taking the trek to the promised land at a slow pace. There are places to see and amazing things to do, so take it easy. Remember - half the fun is getting there. It takes longer, but hugging the coast through Malibu and picking up US 101 just outside of Oxnard will take you into Santa Barbara in about three hours. Once in Santa Barbara, you can check into any number of great boutique hotels for a little R&R and prepare for the trip north. One hotel that comes with a TABLETrecommendation is The Presidio Motel, a high quality MCM place sensitively renovated to bring out the California Vibe before the crazies took over. And it's very reasonable at $120 per night. Another reasonably priced TABLET recommendation is Hotel Oceana. It's right on the Pacific and boast two pools.
Just A Little Bungalow On The Coast
Today you will be a full blown tourist, complete with all of the oohs and aahs that any normal human being expresses when faced with a true man made marvel. So hit the road early to beat the crowds at one of the most amazing architectural gems of California or anywhere else in the world for that matter- The Hearst Castle. Tour reservations are highly recommended. I normally shy away from tourist destinations, but this great house perched on the Pacific Coast of San Simeon is a must see for architects and anyone that wants to see how grand living was like by the uber wealthy and glamour set of the twenties and thirties. Heading towards one of America's most famous homes, you begin to see some of the spectacular scenery unique to the California Coast. You can go via an inland route for a quicker trip, but if you want to relax and enjoy the ride, stay on US 101 and US 1, also known as the Pacific Coast Road, for a visual road trip second to none.
As you turn off The Pacific Coast Highway onto Hearst Castle Road, you become acutely aware of this unique landscape that came to be the ultimate playground for the rich and famous of the day. Such political and Hollywood luminaries as Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, Charles Lindberg and Joan Crawford were regular invited guests. Even the great Winston Churchill spent time in this grand castle, which served as the inspiration for the Xanadu mansion in the Orson Welles film Citizen Kane, a fictionalized account of the newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst himself. What started out as a simple bungalow was developed into one of the most interesting studies in opulent residential design ever built. At 90,000 square feet, The Hearst Castle is not so much a house as a dream like confection of eclecticism rarely seen in houses of this scale. As the story goes, Hearst contacted the architect Julia Morgan to "build something upon the hill at San Simeon. I get tired of going up there and camping in tents. I'm getting a little too old for that. I'd like to get something that would be a little more comfortable".
And a little more comfort he got! Design and construction started in 1919 and continued without ceasing until 1947. Costing $200 million in today's dollars, this eclectic, over the top mansion contained fifty six bedrooms, sixty one bathrooms, nineteen sitting rooms, one hundred twenty seven acres of gardens, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, a movie theatre, an airfield and the world's largest private zoo. Exotic animals can still be seen today. Morgan, a civil engineer as well as an architect, designed and directed the construction of a gravity-based water delivery system which transports water from artesian wells to provide fresh water for the entire castle, including the iconic outdoor Neptune Pool. Architectural critics have and will continue to debate the aesthetics and impact of this opulent house. However, the mammoth accomplishment and the visionary effort by owner and architect cannot be debated.
As we pulled away to head north on US 1, I was reminded of the definition of architecture by the nineteenth century art critic John Ruskin who said "Architecture is the art which so disposes and adorns the edifices raised by men ... that the sight of them" contributes "to his mental health, power, and pleasure". Stylistic arguments aside, after roaming the Hearst Castle, I would say that Ms. Morgan got it right.
Up next, California Road Trip Part Two.
This Week's Video Artist - The Eagles - Combining great writing with tight instrumentals and vocals, no group captures the essence of the real and unreal of California than this band from, guess where? LA.
Travel Quote Of the Week -“A journey of a thousand miles begins with a cash advance.” - Unknown
So which is it? Art imitates life or life is just one big marketing trick. The art of travel is one of life's activities that can educate us, enlighten us, and change our perspective. It can even cause a paradigm shift in our view of the world around us and become as meaningful as a Picasso, Beethoven's Fifth or Notre Dame Cathedral. A paradigm shift is a very scientific event that proves beyond any shadow of any doubt that your previous notions were simply wrong!! It's kind of like - after viewing even a few minutes of Jersey Shore - you have a "paradigm shift" about the future of western civilization. Well, travel can have the same effect - only in the opposite direction. This blog is dedicated to the proposition that travel should not, indeed, cannot be just getting from Point A to Point B. No. Where you stay and what you experience at Point A and Point B and all points in between must be exceptional in every way. In simple terms - Design Matters!
It's Not Just About Looking at Great Buildings!!
Don't get me wrong. As an architect, I am and will always be interested in great buildings, old and new. I studied every square inch of I.M Pei's Glass Pyramid at The Louvre, as I slowly worked my way to viewing the Mona Lisa. I later discovered that the ficticious "Holy Grail" of The Davinci Code was buried beneath the inverted pyramid in an underground shopping mall. That rather bizarre twist of artistic license is worth at least a couple of theological seminars. And in the most beautiful city in the world, who has not been enthralled with the iconic Eiffel Tower - an architectural monument that was supposed to be temporary and was utterly despised by the citizens of Paris at the time. When you think about it, most travel is centered around great works of ancient and modern architecture.
But great architecture is only part of our experience when we travel. No. The small places we sleep, eat, rest and relax in are the ones we burn into our consciousness. Those permanent visions of intimate spaces and places with people we care about become mental and emotional links to love, joy and simple pleasures that travel brings. I once had a discussion with a close friend who told me about a special place she and her husband found hidden in the rocks of Big Sur when they were very young. She described, in great detail, the wine, the picnic basket, the surf pounding on the rocks and the closeness she felt with her husband as they experienced this particular place and how she still remembers every detail about it, even thirty years later. It's those kinds of experiences that we hope to help you find as you plan your travels, be it around the world or down the street.
Vow Today - I Will Not Settle!!
If you want to find the best - not necessarily the most expensive - places to eat and sleep, you have to develop a curious mind set and the tools to accomplish the task of good travel planning, while allowing for the unexpected pleasures that come to people who just don't like tours, crowds or group think. If I have to choose between a 2,000 room "resort" and the rental car - roll down the windows.
In my constant search for unique places of architectural character with design as a central component, I have developed a partial list of Places that I Want to Sleep Before I Die. Disclaimer - I have NOT stayed at any of these places - but I will - unless time runs out! They are completely unique and, in some cases, require you to change your attitude about travel. They have been researched to the extreme - i.e. - I have read every possible review and studied every piece of information I could glean from the web, books and any other source I could find on each place listed.
The Nomad Architect's Incomplete List of The Top Ten Places To Sleep Before You Die
I started with the most expensive place on the list. Prices range from $600 to $1,400, depending on season and view (Mountain or Ocean). Big Sur is one of nature's true wonders for romantics and nature lovers. After studying numerous reviews, drawings and photographs of Post Ranch Inn, it is clear that Architect Michael Mueinning did all the right things when he inserted forty unique rooms, suites and houses into the rugged Big Sur Coast, some 1,200 feet above the Pacific, to create what has been referred to, by many travel publications, as the most romantic small hotel in the world. So, if money is indeed no object - and you really want to impress the one you love - this is the place!!
A sweet little, funky re-birthed 50's motel in an inspiring desert landscape can be had for a paltry $145 to $175 per night. I felt like I owed it to any Broke Nomads after the Post Ranch Inn to provide a very cool, very funky alternative place on the cheap!! It has that Route 66 Vibe and all the quirkiness and soul you would expect from an artist turned hotelier!!
These are the actual instructions, from the hotel website, on how to get to this luxury hotel and spa on the Pacific Coast of Mexico - A 3 hour flight takes you from L.A. to Puerto Vallarta. A quick drive gets you to Boca de Tomatlan - the last beach you can reach by car. From there it's a 30 minute boat ride along the beautiful coast to Yelapa. We will be waiting for you at the beach with our mules to take you and your luggage to our hillside location. If you need a mule ride, please advise us prior to your arrival. A place that requires that kind of logistics just to get there has to be good. Designed by Heinz Legler and Veronique Lievre, a former movie set builder and set decorator respectively, this heavenly little eco-hotel, carved out of the Mexican jungle with uninterrupted views of the Pacific should make you forget about the traffic and the tasks of your workaday life back home. They say the food is to die for as well.
Like great Texas singers/songwriters Lyle Lovett, Robert Earl Keen, Norah Jones and Delbert McClinton, Texas has produced some talented, regional architects who have created a varied body of design work that combines the uniqueness of the Texas landscape and culture with an often austere, stripped down form of regionalism that is visually stunning and spatially diverse. One such place that must be considered is The Hotel San Jose' in the heart of The Live Music Capital Of The World. According to former guests, The San Jose' is everything you don't want in a chain and less. With minimalist interiors and enticing exterior courtyard spaces and easy access to South Congress Avenue and all the live music you will ever need, The Lake Flato Architects' designed San Jose' is a must for people who want to feel comfortable and cool at the same time.
Because Florida is such a huge tourist destination, it actually has fewer small, boutique hotels than you would expect. However, The Postcard Inn, a very cool, funky little renovated 1950's motel is a step in the right direction. As Travel+Leisure Magazine says - True to its surfer-cool, 1950’s-motel roots, the new Postcard Inn, in St. Pete Beach, Florida, is hip, affordable, and resolutely casual. Saint Pete Beach, like other West Coast and East Coast Beach destinations such as Daytona and Fort Lauderdale, is slowly making its way back to the Pre-Disney/MTV Days when they were centers of the Party Hardy Universe. A great time on a great beach can be had for about $175 per night. And the choices for food are infinite, including a great little on site restaurant.
Francis Ford Coppola, the iconic movie director, is working the same magic in the hotel business as he did with the revival of the Inglenook Wine Brand into a world class Winery. Blancaneuax Lodge, located in the Mayan mountains, is a destination with incomparable natural beauty and cabanas and villas that leave no detail to chance for the Demanding Nomad. It's eco-travel for people who want the very best. The on site food is reported to be local and excellent and you will have a world of interesting eco-oriented things to do when you're not enjoying the exquisitely designed sleeping quarters. Some even have their own private plunge pools! Great destination for the Romantic Nomad.
Designed by Pritzker Prize winning architect Frank Gehry, the Hotel Marques De Riscal is an utterly unique hotel on one of Spain's most esteemed winery estates. Located in the Rioja region of Spain, this colored, titanium clad boutique hotel, designed to mimic the colors of wine, is literally built on top of a winery that has changed little since the 1800's. Also featured in the must see PBS Travel Series On The Road Again With Gwineth Paltro and Mario Batali, this small forty three room hotel should be on every Nomad's list of Places to
Sleep Before You Die.
After you pay a virtual visit to Toscana Rustica, a boutique hotel web site dedicated to a group of small, intimate hotels, converted barns and other unique places to sleep, you will want to take the first plane to Florence, grab a Smart Car and head to one of several properties located in the enchanted land of romance, great food and great wine - Tuscany. One such property is Il Cortile, a romantic little place nestled into the hillside of the picturesque village of Taponecco. With a very cool design featuring sensitive restoration of an ancient group of buildings and spaces you will not want to leave. And its in the heart of a part of Europe that practically invented great food and wine!
Nobody inserts modern into ancient like the Europeans. And nobody does it better than the French. Bastion Ste. Anne is just such a place. The architect has overlaid this 13th century fortress, in the heart of Burgundy, with minimalist interiors and crisp detailing that will ensure that you will long remember this unique "house". When is the last time you slept in a place that sported a loft for viewing, a glass greenhouse with a monster fireplace for relaxation and a Bulthaup Kitchen to create your own culinary delights? And you have your very own orchard for al fresco dining. If you listen closely, you might hear a couple of Dukes discussing exactly where they planned to place the wine cellars.
With one of the most robust economies in the European Union, tiny little Estonia brings us an amazing boutique hotel and spa. Padaste Manor is the essence of living large on a small scale. Combining a world class hotel with an equally impressive spa, this sounds like a place you could get lost in. With a history dating back to 1566, this rural manor has been developed into a destination for Nomads that covet world class pampering. So grab your mate and take off to this little place in a little country in the hinterlands of the EU for some serious R&R.
Arrival by sea plane, fly fishing, kayaking, hiking, horseback riding. It sounds like a veritable Ernest Hemingway cure for writer's block. Except you sleep in a tent. And not just any tent. No. If Versace had been a tent designer, these are the tents he would have designed. Classic white canvas enclosures resting regally on raised wooden platforms in the heart of the Canadian Wilderness. I was a Boy Scout until I discovered girls, and I don't ever remember any tents like these. With thermostatically controlled wood stoves, some even have en suite bathrooms. With only twenty tents, it's a Nomad's answer to the great outdoors with a little Waldorf thrown in so you can get your needed rest for a plethora of unending eco-activities. So, if you think you might like to be a jetsetting Eco-Nomad, then, by all means, grab your gear, hitch a ride and head for the woods.
So, there you have some ideas that, hopefully, will help you in your quest for that one in a million place you and yours are searching for. That's really what travel is. Thoreau said most men lead lives of quiet desperation. Not so of stalwart seekers of real experiences and mind shifting travel to enlightening environs that you never knew existed until you actually experienced it.
To paraphrase the hit song by Oleta Adams: You can get there by railway, by trailway, by airplane, by caravan - it doesn't matter how you get there - just get there if you can - and - I would add - Set a spell once you do!
This Week's Video Artist - Lyle Lovett is a true American Original and, in this week's video set, he is joined by the likes of John Hiatt, Joe Ely, and Guy Clarke on one tune and Randy Newman on another. Just great stuff for surfing the net while you find cool places to go.
Travel Quote of The Week - "Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore." - Andre Gide
