A New Millineum Wedding In God's Country

At This Place - Joy Comes In The Morning, The Afternoon and The Midnight Hour

Sorry I lost a week. It has taken us this long to come down from the good vibrations experienced after three amazing days in the cradle of the confederacy. Participating in a happening that you can only imagine until you are there is an experience that only comes along a few times in one's life. Other than when I married my bride of thirty nine years and when my son and daughter were born, I simply cannot recall any time in my life when I have felt more one with that spiritual thing that only comes when something profound occurs. 

One aspect of being a Nomad is the appreciation of what we call, in the design profession, "context". It's impossible to separate travel from the effects of  history and culture that give a town, region or country its own sense of place . The south, so eloquently captured by Pulitzer Prize winning novelist Margaret Mitchell in the epic story of love and civil war Gone With The Wind, is not just a geographical location but a "place of the imagination". Because of its history and its contribution to American culture through its literature, cookery and music, the region has a unique place in the American consciousness. And Southerners take comfort in the knowledge that they live in places partitioned by the Almighty as ante rooms to the Promised Land. It is the land of milk and honey, or at least, sweet iced tea and peaches. Our destination for the new millennium wedding,  Vinewood Plantation, just outside of Newnan, Georgia, captures both the real and the imagined  old south with a new, vibrant vibe that makes old things  new and history still relevant. If you are going to get married, where better to do it than in one of Heaven's earthly parlors?

A Cool House In A Cool Town Makes for A Very Good Place To Get Together

As we headed for Newnan, the location of most of the events for the weekend, we could feel the pre-wedding jitters begin to build, even though our role was not nearly as involved and complicated as those of the bride and the groom. One thing we learned over the course of the last few months -planning a wedding, especially a "destination" wedding, is the logistical equivalent of a mission to Mars. All of the details, decision making and stress associated with any wedding requires great resolve, intelligence and creativity. Having a seasoned, detail obsessed pro like my niece,  Susan, helps as well. I was not there, but I was told that the negotiations for the wedding hotel would not have happened without her intervention on Tara's behalf. It's always nice to have a fellow Nomad in the family that knows the ropes.

Driving into Newnan, I was struck by its vibrant quality. Having seen so many southern towns fade away in the modern world, it was refreshing to see one that has managed to keep its local, small town character while still remaining new and relevant. One sure sign that Newnan is very comfortable with itself was the presence of an art exhibit in the downtown area. Known as "A Horsey Affair", twenty five brightly painted horses appear in various locations throughout the downtown area. And any town that boasts southern writer and humorist Lewis Grizzard as a native son must be placed on any Nomad's List of  Places To See.

As we pulled up to the Major Long House to drop off the arrangements of giant sunflowers for the rehearsal dinner, we were met by the first of many wonderful people we interfaced with to create the perfect wedding. Georgia Shapiro is a southern woman in every sense of the word. With a casual grace, she is one of those people that always seems to be in complete control of all events in her sphere. With a quick wit and conversational skills that make you feel right at home, she explained the details of how this grand old house came to be the happening place that I was immediately drawn to when I was dispatched several months ago on reconnaissance to find a venue for the rehearsal dinner. As an architect, I always.look for the real thing in a house. With rough pine board floors, exquisite plaster detailing, period wall coverings and hand painted black and white checkerboard floors in the grand parlor, this classic southern house is the perfect place to bring family and friends together for any event. Finally, Susie told Georgia that we needed to go and that, if left unattended, I would be there for the next several hours discussing the history and minutiae of this great old place. The hospitality continued into the next evening at the rehearsal dinner as Georgia, her more than helpful husband and her champion bartender, flower arranger and woman of unlimited party skills assisted us with the details of preparations for the kickoff event.

And if your going to have something catered, you might as well go with a legend - Sprayberry's Barbecue. Started in 1926 in the back of a gas station, it is simply the best barbecue I have ever tasted. And the reviews of those in attendance confirmed this food critic's opinion. Plus, Alan Jackson waited tables there. A weekend trip to Newnan and Sprayberry's must be added to every Nomad's List of Places To Eat Before You Die. You can thank me later!

Friday morning. The guys headed to Atlanta to pick up rental tuxes. All right thinking men know that weddings are about the bride. That is one of life's immutable truths. That premise is confirmed by the simple fact that the groom and his groomsmen wear rented tuxes or suits that are usually grey and understated, whereas, the bride wears a dress of uncompromising beauty and detail, while her bridesmaids wear dresses that have been painstakingly selected from an endless selection of dresses from Nieman Marcus, Saks or any number of boutiques to ensure just the right coordinated look.  After picking up the tuxes, we all headed over to one of the best burger places in Atlanta - Yeah Burger!! Serving only locally grown, grass fed beef, the burgers are to die for. And as you might expect, while the men were eating burgers, as good as they were, I am told that the burgers didn't compare to the luncheon for the ladies at The Veranda B&B in the nearby community  of Senoia, Georgia. In addition to the excellent food in the dining room of a vintage southern house, the town of Senoia is one of the locations for the hit television series The Walking Dead. The mental image of well appointed ladies enjoying strawberry shortcake, while hordes of flesh eating zombies stroll by is at least an interesting concept to ponder. I was told that all the zombies were kept at bay while the ladies enjoyed their late morning soiree.

We arrived late at the Major Longhouse for the rehearsal dinner. In addition to setting all of the tables and placing the flowers, Georgia and her staff helped us unload the ice and refreshments for the evening and the doors opened on time at 7:00 PM. As the place began to fill with the laughter of numerous friends and members of both families, we began to relax and enjoy the vibe of the first official event of the weekend. The evening went off without a hitch. Great food was had by all and great conversation continued well into the night as people enjoyed the fellowship of each other's company. And I must give kudos to my one and only, Susie. She has spent most of her professional and personal life planning events and telling other people when to show up and be ready, and this event was no different. She is the single most unflappable person I know. And everyone adores her. As I would listen to her questions and directives concerning various details for a party for seventy in a house and town she had never visited until that weekend, I knew all would go well. And it did. 

Another Grand House, a Barn and The Biggest Pecan Tree I Ever Saw

The big day. As I walked to the car from the hotel to get some morning joe at the nearby Starbucks, I pondered the events that were coming our way on the most important day of the lives of my son and soon to be daughter-in-law. There was not a cloud in the sky. This was not surprising, given that Susie had had many one on ones with the Almighty concerning the weather. Weather prayers are a critical component of any wedding that is going to be outside. However, before the main event, there was work to be done. Enter Tara's uncle Cecil. Like Will Rogers, Cecil  never met a man he didn't like.  Without hesitation, he offered himself and his SUV to help load, transport and deliver what seemed like a ton of ice and refreshments for the post ceremony reception. My hat goes off to this southern gentleman for his help and humor.

Because Susie had to go with the bridal party early to prepare for the ceremony, I was left on my own to get dressed and get myself to the wedding on time. As I arrived, the essence of this unique venue became apparent. The main house at Vinewood  is an exquisitely restored example of all that is expected in great vintage residential architecture. And the old pole barn has been lovingly restored as well. As we made last minute preparations and took photographs, I realized that these people at Vinewood know what they are doing. From Jamie, one of the owners, to Maria, the wedding coordinator, everyone seemed to be in more places at more times than you could imagine. As the guests began to take their seats under the waning afternoon sun, it was evident that this special place, on this day, under a blue Georgia sky, in the shade of a massive pecan tree, was the only place on earth for holy nuptials to be expressed by two people ready to begin a new life together.

As the dashing groom came in, followed by his groomsmen, I could see the pride on his mother's face. And then the bridesmaids, dressed in elegant, light blue dresses, including the bride's best friend and bridesmaid, my lovely daughter and resident humorist, Lauren, took their rightful places. Then there she was. Tara. This beautiful, petite, young woman, known to her friends as Munchkin, dressed in a gown meant only for her on this day, walked in the cool grass, accompanied by her proud father and mother, to take her place under the shade of the big tree next to her soon to be husband. As the ceremony began, her father  effortlessly caught her veil as a brief zephyr disengaged it from her beautifully coiffed hair, leaving not a strand out of place. As  the songs were sung and the vows exchanged,  this most sacred  of ceremonies became perfection in God's country.  And I understood, once again, what my mother meant when she told me - One day you will understand. Now I know.

And Let The Good Times Roll

After the post ceremony photographs, it was time to eat, drink and be merry. And when you have food from Taqueria del Sol, one of Atlanta's top purveyors of  southern, mexican and southwestern cuisine, the eating part is all good. And with a band like Rustic Charlie, fronted by lead singer Eric Blackman, nailing great tunes from Rolling In The Deep to old and new R&B, Soul and Dance Music, a great time was had by all. Even The Nomad got in on the act with a knock 'em dead rendition of the classic Wilson Picket tune Mustang Sally, with a little help from his best friend and brother, Errol. And what a crowd! As the party rocked and rolled its way toward closing time, it became apparent that this is what you are supposed to do at a wedding - Rejoice and be Glad!! And where better to do it than under a hot, starry Georgia spring                                                                     

night sky?

And finally, Sunday morning. As the lingering guests came in to enjoy an outstanding breakfast served up by The Wyndham Peachtree Conference Center on another blue skied Georgia day, it was great to share stories and goodbyes with all of the great people that came to be a part of this wonderful event. Looking back on the previous three days, it seemed  that every Nomad there, for a brief period of time, simply dropped anchor and let the good times roll. Now that's the way to travel!

Video Artist of The Week-  The British Folk Rock Indie Band Mumford & Sons . "She Said Yes" is worth a serious listen for a fresh take on love and life.

Travel Quote of The Week -   A first-rate marriage is like a first-rate hotel: expensive, but worth it. -Mignon McLaughlin, The Second Neurotic's Notebook, 1966 . Spoken like a true Nomad in love.                   

Love and Kisses

D.L. Stafford

thenomadARCHITECT

 

Photo Credits - Charlotte Fristoe, Susan Stafford & Anonymous.

Three Days of Stress & Relaxation - A Wedding Under The Big Tree

Today's post will be very short as we are making last minute preparations for our son's wedding to his beloved under the afternoon shade of a giant pecan tree at a classic southern venue, Vinewood Plantation  near Atlanta. The groom is fairly relaxed, the groom's father is keeping it together so far, the groom's mother, as always, is a rock and the bride - well - my son said last night he couldn't really find the words. He just knows he is marrying the girl of his dreams. This is my first wedding in the modern era, and things have certainly changed. No more cake and punch in the church basement! But I must say here that I am so proud and thankful for all of the family and friends that have gone beyond the call to make this a once in a lifetime event for Lance and Tara.

Last night, as I was making out various last minute lists and talking and texting my son about this and that, I thought back about my own wedding to the most amazing woman who came into my life and changed me forever.  And now I think I finally understand what my mother meant when she said - One day you will understand. As they watch from another time and another place, Juanita and Chester will be so very proud.

Video Artist of The Week - Another fine British import - Corrine Bailey Rae. With a fresh take on jazz, pop and soul, this unique singer brings the right vibe to every tune she lays down.

Travel Quote of The Week - "My wife says I never listen to her. At least I think that's what she said." -anonymous

Life Goes On,

DLS

thenomadARCHITECT 

Random Musings from A Committed Nomad

The First, The Best & The Worst

This week's post is, well, all about me. Or at least about me and the important people in my life. I have talked before about this architect's obsessive need to make lists. I have also been told by friend and foe alike that I generally do no know when to be quiet. That is one of the reasons I took up this adventure in journalistic narcissism. You know the song - I need a release, etc. etc. ugh!! Having said all that, I thought this week would be a great time to recount some memorable moments of travel I have experienced. Normally, I would come up with a plethora of insights on the unique qualities of a small hotel or other place of architectural quality down some road in a place I hope you have never been. And I know that my legions of fans have come to expect erudition & enlightenment on a weekly basis about traveling down the smaller road. But this week its all personal. So please indulge me my musings, random though they may be. I thank you in advance.

If the following list appears to be incomplete and random, it is. You will have to forgive me for not being intellectually on my game, as I am watching the clock on the wall as the seconds tick down to next Saturday at 5:30 PM when my smart, handsome, witty, fair haired son, Lance, will marry the equally smart, gorgeous, wonderful fashionista, Tara, under a large pecan tree at Vinewood Plantation just south of Atlanta in Newnan, Georgia. And let me just say, even though, as the father of the groom, I have been pretty much out of the loop, the organizational skills required in planning a wedding make planning a vacation look like ordering a Happy Meal at Mickey D's! The "kids" will be honeymooning at a small, ocean front resort in Barbados Tara found, by being a diligent and obsessive Nomad. We've discussed getting daily reports from Tara & Lance to share on The Nomad Architect. We shall see.

So Without Further Ado - A Random List of Travel Memories

First travel memory - Way back in the day - Ordering & then eating, all by myself,  a loaded hot dog with a side order of fries in a cone, then chasing it with an ice cold six ounce bottle of coke, followed by a Nutty Buddy ice cream cone from the mobile hot dog stand in front of the Castaway Motel on The World's Most Famous Beach - Daytona. The coolest thing about the beach was that people could drive on it. What a way to live for a seven year old!

First memory of traveling with a car radio - Riding late at night to Gatlinburg, Tennessee, to go camping in The Great Smoky Mountains National Park, my father would find the great radio DJ John R. on WLAC from Nashville on the AM dial. Sitting in the back seat cocoon of the big car, I heard music and "radio talk" I had never heard before. Rhythm & Blues from the likes of Muddy Waters and Howlin' Wolf and a raspy, gravelly aged voice broadcasting an array of eclectic "commercials" for everything from vinyl seat covers to hair cream. It seemed so exotic back then.

My first realization that there was another world  out there - Visiting New York with our father while on business was always a treat. I believe my penchant for wanderlust came to be when my father rented a bright red convertible and took an all day tour of New York City from Manhattan to Harlem to The East Village to The Bowery with the top down. With my mom in the front seat and my brother and I rubbernecking at every turn in the back, it was an experience I have never forgotten.

Favorite Disney World memory - After the sixth or seventh time riding with my daughter, Lauren, through It's A Small World , in one day, and sharing the simple pleasure of my baby girl being mesmerized by magic, I realized that life simply does not get any better.

Favorite sports memory - This didn't involve travel, per se, unless you consider the fifteen minute ride to the ball park travel. My son's first No Hitter. If you know anything about baseball, you must understand the depth of pride that that was my kid. Absolute proof positive that life simply doesn't get any better.

Coolest Small Hotel - On a side street, a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower, is the lilliputian Hotel Mayet. Everything about this cool little hotel is - well - cool and small. The rooms, the corridors, the two person elevator and, of course, the bathroom is designed for the little people. But I have never stayed anywhere that has more style and design. Every surface, every piece of art and every fixture is well executed. No detail is left to chance. The topper was the cave like breakfast room, in the basement, with bright striped vinyl clad floors inserted under an old stone vaulted ceiling. What a way to begin the day!

Funniest travel memory - Nothing like a road trip with the kids, right? On our way to Nashville we decided to take some R&R at the Dillard House, a family restaurant and small inn north of  Atlanta.  In addition to a great restaurant, they also have a small petting zoo of goats, rabbits and other farm animals for a pleasant diversion for NOWK's (Nomads with Kids). The day was a classic summer day in the South. Very hot and very humid. As the kids were being entertained by this particularly large bearded goat, we observed one of the truly unique happenings in nature, at least among farm animals. With sad eyes gazing in the distance, the goat slowly turned its head to the side and proceeded to "cool" himself by peeing on top of his head causing the four us to laugh uncontrollably. Had we had a video camera, we could have paid for the trip with our winnings from The World's Funniest Home Video. And to send us over the edge into laugh nirvana was watching another family with kids walk up to the goat and start petting it on the very head that had just been relieved upon. Now that's funny!

Most Romantic Place We Ever Slept - This one is hard. But at least tied for first place has to be The Cliff House on Whidbey Island near Seattle. Accessible by ferry, this amazing awarding winning house of glass and wood boasts killer views of Puget Sound, deep in the forest on the west side of Whidbey. It feels like the end of the world. After walks on the rugged, desolate beach or down the lane under canopies of massive douglas firs and redwoods, you get to return to this amazing piece of residential design to watch the sun go down and rest for the next mist covered morning. It's the perfect place to take the one you love.

Most Favorite City - Hands down - Paris!. Paris has it all. Great boulevards and side streets to wander down. Because Paris has so few tall buildings, it has a human scale that invites you to investigate around every corner. The street side cafes, along with intimate public spaces, allow you to just sit and watch the world go by. And of course, you have the Eiffel, the Louvre and the Centre Pompidou. And last, but not least, the food. The perfect combination of art and artistry.

Least Favorite City - Also a no-brainer - Las Vegas. Sin City has everything, including 110 degree heat, thousands of wandering, sweaty tourists looking for something that isn't there and more tacky buildings per square foot than any place on earth. You cannot take any city seriously that has a fake Statue of Liberty, a fake Empire State Building, a fake Brooklyn Bridge and a fake Eiffel Tower. But, the topper of tacky has to be the real estate developer's ultimate testament to bad design - the coup de gras of imposture  - The Grand Canal of Venice. One can only hope that what gets built in Vegas stays in Vegas. The most attractive part of this desert enclave of banality is US 15 North, the road to the natural wonders of Southwest Utah.

Scariest Travel Memory - Yosemite. Shortly after Labor Day. No Crowds. What a great way to see one of the great natural wonders of this vast country. But on this trip, the splendor of the natural world quickly evaporated when we lost our eleven year old Lance. Lance needed to use the restroom, so his mother patiently waited outside the restroom while Lance went inside. After what seemed like an eternity - no Lance. Now, my bride is not one to panic, but, after yelling from the door, with no answer, then asking a gentleman exiting if he had seen a cute little blond kid inside - to which he replied no, the freaking out began. Ready to stand in front of the exit and allow no one to leave the park, we started our feverish search. After several minutes, there he was, quietly standing on a large boulder enjoying the view. Turns out the restroom had two entrances/exits and he went out the in door! Together again, we laughed happily, but it wasn't funny.

Most Memorable Meal - This one is easy. After arriving late on a Sunday at the Castello Di Tornano, a country hotel in a tenth century stone castle, in the heart of Tuscany, we asked if we could get something to eat. Without hesitation, an awning was opened up over a table on the terrace overlooking the rolling hills of this picturesque place. As we sat down, plates of  prosciutto, risotto, cheese, bread, fruit and a nice local red were cheerily served by Massimo and his assistant. There we sat, literally under the Tuscan sun, on this beautiful plateau with an ancient castle cum hotel as  backdrop, enjoying lunch like a Don and his mistress.

So, that's just some random thoughts on memorable travel moments. I could write a book of anecdotes, but that would probably be pretty tedious. I encourage you to sit and write down or at least ponder your own travel moments that have stuck with you. It's an exercise worthy of your time. Like old photographs, travel memories give your life meaning and continuity. In this world that seems to turn more upside down every day, we need to hang on to those images. And, if you feel so led, I welcome you to share your own travel experiences. Just click on the comments link below and write away! If you are reading this as an email, then just click THENOMADARCHITECT to go to the blog for the comments link.

Video Artist of The Week - You cannot get any more random than David Byrne. The front man and main force behind the New Wave Band Talking Heads, Byrne has made a career of singing and dancing to a different beat. Always interesting and never boring.

Travel Quote of The Week -Tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they're going. - Paul Theroux

From Memory Lane,

D.L.S.
thenomadARCHITECT

A Pilgrimage To Mecca - Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater

"There in a beautiful forest was a solid, high rock ledge rising beside a waterfall, and the natural thing seemed to be to cantilever the house from that rock bank over the falling water..." - Frank Lloyd Wright in an interview with Hugh Downs, 1954

Every architect, at some point in their life, must make the pilgrimage to what many consider, including this architect, to be the greatest work of modern architectural residential design ever built - Fallingwater at Bear Run, Pennsylvania. With a back story worthy of a mini-series, this great American house, designed and built between 1935 and 1937, came to be as a result of two men - Edgar Kaufmann, a self made plutocrat and patron  and Frank Lloyd Wright, an architect who, at the age of seventy, had become largely irrelevant to the world of architecture, etched his position as America's greatest architect in stone and concrete. The "house on the waterfall" captured the imagination of the architectural press and subsequently became  the most visited work of modern residential design ever built in America.

Only Two Hours To Make A House!

The stories behind the design and construction of Fallingwater have been chronicled in numerous books, documentary films and countless design magazines. Separating fact from legend is not always easy in the course of studying such an enigmatic figure as Wright. In addition to being America's greatest architect, he was a philanderer, a terrible businessman and an unabashed self promoter. And the technical construction problems that plagued the house have been well chronicled. But those issues are beyond the scope of today's post. As an architect, I have always been intrigued by the creative process. Every architect, painter, sculptor, writer or musician develops their own methodology of creating their work.  Upon talking with his client on the phone and learning that he would be at his studio in a few hours, Wright sat down to "design" what would come to be known as Fallingwater. Verbal accounts of apprentices present at the time, as chronicled by Franklin Toker in his definitive "biography" Fallingwater Rising, give insight into the particular genius of Wright as he created America's most famous modern house:

Apprentice Cary Caraway:

"Wright took three sheets of tracing paper in different colors, one for the basement, another for the first floor and a third for the second floor, and sketched it to a scale of one-eight inch equals one foot. We were all standing around him. I'd say it took two hours."

Apprentice Edgar Tafel:

"Wright hung up the phone with Kaufmann, briskly emerged from his office, some twelve steps from the the drafting room, sat down at the table set with the plot plan (of the topography of Bear Run), and started to draw. First floor plan. Second floor. Section, elevation. Side sketches of details, talking sotto voce all the while. The design just poured out of him. "Liliane and E.J. will have tea on the balcony...they'll cross the bridge to walk into the woods..." Pencils being used up as fast as we could sharpen them when broken...Erasures, overdrawings, modifying, flipping sheets back and forth. Then, the bold title across the bottom: "Fallingwater." A house has to have a name....The basic design never changed.

The Pilgrim Asked - Where On Earth Will We Stay?

Like many of Wright's houses, Fallingwater is located in the hinterland. Due to its location about two hours from Pittsburgh in the Bear Run Nature Reserve, finding a nearby hotel, four star or otherwise, proved to be a challenge. After much searching on the internet, I landed on the very large, golf centered Nemacolin Woodlands Resort. And as luck would have it, one of their many properties was designed and built to emulate the one and only Frank Lloyd Wright. Falling Rock, the Wright inspired hotel on the Nemacolin property, provides a refreshing alternative to the Chateau Lafayette, a rather pedestrian copy of  The Ritz in Paris. Recently given the 2012 Forbes Travel Guide Five Star Award, the ample rooms, which overlook the Pete Dye designed Mystic Rock Golf Course, come complete with Wright inspired furnishings and showers that would be at home in any high end spa. There is also an excellent on site restaurant, Aqueous, that serves food a cut above typical "resort" food.

Doing Mecca Wright

After a good night of rest and relaxation, we headed out early to make the twenty minute drive to Fallingwater. This area of Pennsylvania is bucolic in every sense of the word. The countryside is dotted with small farms scattered amongst rolling hills, rivers and forests. One of the most annoying realities of many great works of architecture, particularly houses, is that the environment they were originally designed and built in no longer exists. What once was an isolated work of art on a wind swept prairie is now in the middle of a suburb filled with over the top garish McMansions. Not so with Fallingwater. In 1963, the Kaufmann family endowed the house and surrounding property to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy, ensuring that this famous house will always be appreciated in the unfettered natural beauty of its unique site with no built distractions.

As you would expect, the Visitor's Center is designed to conform with the aesthetics of Fallingwater. Linear stonework, concrete and wood details abound. In addition, the cafe serves decent food for those who wish to take a load off before or after viewing the house. And of course, it sells  everything ever designed by, sketched by or thought of by Frank Lloyd Wright. Every piece of "organic", Wright inspired accessory, from ash trays to earrings, is available. This did not bother me, as the conservancy must spend an inordinate amount of money to maintain this unique work of architecture.

After picking up our tickets, we decided to grab a quick bite in the cafe, while waiting for our tour to begin. I recommend purchasing tickets before you go. One point needs to be made here about tours. While the regular tour gives you a chance to see this great work of art, I highly recommend the In-Depth Tour. This tour allows you much more access to virtually every space to see the entirety of the design and learn much of the thinking, planning and construction behind various spaces and details incorporated into the house. In addition, the group for this tour is much smaller, so you can appreciate the house with fewer distractions. In my humble opinion, it is worth more than the price of admission.

The tour begins about a quarter mile from the house. At the risk of sounding like an architecture geek, my anticipation of seeing this work of architecture that I had studied and read obsessively about as an architecture student, was very intense. Walking along the original car path towards the house, deep in the Laurel Highlands of Pennsylvania,  you take yourself back to a time when the Kaufmann family took extended vacations in what would eventually become the world's most famous modern house. And then you turn a small, slow curve to catch the first glimpse of this work of "Organic Architecture" set against the backdrop of ancient stone outcroppings. Massive stone walls support white concrete, gravity defying cantilevers reaching out over the cascading waterfall. As you walk across the bridge towards the entrance, the perspective begins to change and the multi-dimensional character of the house becomes more apparent. Once inside, all of the tenants of organic architecture become apparent. Modern and ancient. Cave like and light filled at the same time. And seamless detailing on virtually every surface. Fallingwater delivers on the promise that great design offers. From the massive central stone hearth to the terraces reaching out to the waterfall and the woods beyond, you simply do not want to leave this living work of art. And finally you walk downstream for the view of the most photographed image of this iconic house showing the concrete forms which seem to take flight over the water. Architecture geek indeed!

After spending the day at Fallingwater, we returned to the hotel for an excellent dinner, and rested up for the next day's excursion to another Wright designed house nearby - Kentuck Knob - an exquisitely maintained house designed by Wright in 1953 at the tender young age of eighyt six. Complete with an extensive collection of outdoor sculpture, it is worth your time to see this smaller house that Wright claimed he "shook out of his sleeve at will”.

So, if you want to spend a few days seeing one of America's great works of architecture and some of the country's most beautiful landscapes, Fallingwater is a must see for all Curious Nomads. And with The Nemacolin Resort nearby, you will have a great place to rest and relax at the end of the day.


Nomad Quote of The Week - Early in life I had to choose between honest arrogance and hypocritical humility. I chose the former and have seen no reason to change.  - Frank Lloyd Wright


Video Artist of The Week - Simon & Garfunkel - One of the most compelling duos to come out of the sixties. Great writing and amazing vocals made them a household name. And, they may be the only group to ever record a song about an architect -  So Long Frank Lloyd Wright. How's that for a seamless blend of journalism and the arts?


From Somewhere Deep In The Woods,,

D.L. Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT

Lolligaggin' In Provence Part Deux - Lazy Days In A Vineyard

Ne rien faire du tout

Doing absolutely nothing. It is pretty much a lost art in the new millennium. Back Door Travel Guru Rick Steves admonishes all travelers to insert "down days" into any travel itinerary. In this age of travel at the speed of sound, we are accustomed to doing things fast. And that tends to spill over into traveling as well. We have all subjected ourselves to seeing far too much in far too little time. If you have kids and have been to Disney, you know of what I speak. This Blog is dedicated to the proposition that half the fun of travel is getting there (Delta being the default exception of course) and when you do get there - just relax! You may be a Nomad, but dropping anchor and staying awhile is an absolute requirement to absorb the people, culture and eccentricities of any place worth visiting. Setting aside a day or two just to rest and relax with no side trips, no museums and no attractions will ensure that you  maintain your equilibrium and truly enjoy the reasons you suffered through that nine hour flight from Atlanta to Paris in the first place.Today's post is about just such a place and will prove that Mr. Steves is absolutely spot on with his down day rule.

Bienvenue - Take Your Shoes Off & Set A Spell

After three days of serious sight seeing in Paris, a day of travel on high speed rail, more walking and rubbernecking in Avignon and a good bit of road travel in Provence, we pulled through the gate at the immaculately groomed La Bastide de Marie, an 18th century farmhouse converted into a destination boutique property with a seamless, eclectic design of old stone walls, tile roofs and  interiors that would be at home in any century. The "bastide" goes to great lengths to provide what I would term unpretentious elegance. And the best part. This lovingly restored eighteenth century mansion functions as the epicenter of sixty plus acres of the Le Domaine de Marie Vineyard. If you were to assemble a portfolio of images touting the essence of the country life in rural France, you would start at this place that was made for good friends, good food and great memories. And the architecture is five star. From the ancient stone house with exquisitely detailed interior spaces and other structures, to the beds that would satisfy the most demanding Nomad in need of rest, this place should be on every Nomad's List of Places To Sleep Before You Die!

As we pulled into the parking area, we were met by a friendly Frenchman, who sounded exactly like Maurice Chevalier in Gigi. I could hear "Thank Heavens for Little Girls" as he dispatched various staff to transfer our luggage to our one of a kind room in this very large, magnificently appointed place. As he leisurely walked us around the estate showing us the Living Room, the Bar Area, The Restaurant, The Patio and The Vineyard, the only thing missing was the boater hat. As we looked out over the vineyard, the essence of this unique place, just outside Menerbes, began to sink in.  I mean, if you are going to have a "down day" and do absolutely nothing,  it might as well be in a world class boutique farm house/hotel, in the middle of Provence, in the middle of a vineyard, with a concierge that reminds you of the classic Maurice Chevalier, right? After settling into our room, we strolled leisurely around the exquisitely landscaped grounds to take in the vibe and completely succumb to this unique environment and all of its essence as a place of reflection and rest. Little did we know that the art of doing nothing, at least at La Bastide de Marie, involves doing at least one thing with reckless abandon . Eating!

Did Julia Child Sleep Here Or What?

When it comes to food, it is an incontrovertible fact  that the French are masters of the culinary arts. They invented the crepe and perfected the omelet. And they are known the world over for the finest wines ever to cross a palette. Eating French food really only requires two sentiments. One - Embrace a diversity of flavors and combinations of  ingredients unparalleled in the world of epicurean delights and Two - Don't even think about dieting on French Food! You must rid yourself of all trepidation and simply give in to the joy of French Cooking. We had already enjoyed many fine meals of all kinds in Paris and Avignon, including some late afternoon wine, bread and cheese we had found in a small market near our hotel. But nothing had prepared us for the culinary delights of a multi-course meal at The Restaurant, housed in a glass enclosed solarium or, if you prefer, a shaded terrace under cover of ancient shade trees. Most people think of French Food as somewhat complicated and fussy. Not so at La Bastide de Marie. As they say on their web site:

 "The chef works closely with nature, using seasonal produce. Freshness is his watchword as he sets out each day to gather treasures from the local markets, where the displays of regional producers inspire his dish of the day. Simple recipes and imaginative combinations give his menus their light, scented and melodious accents, full of the Provence we love to breathe in and savour. As proof, for dinner you can appreciate our Chef's very best specialities: smoky chilled tomato soup with olive tartare, Provençal-style "caillettes" (a kind of meatball) with herbs from the garden, creamy risotto with Vaucluse mushrooms and truffles, crème brulée flavoured with lavender grown on the estate, and profiteroles with lime tree blossom and lemon frosted with juniper and thyme...nature is entirely a matter of taste!"

And every word rings true with every bite of food from each course and each companion wine. After a meal at this simple house in a vineyard, you will never look at food quite the same again. Spending time at this place of unpretentious elegance, allowed us to take  Rick Steves' admonishment to heart and do absolutely nothing for two full days. Unless you count reading a book while drinking a local red with a little cheese, and watching the chef and his old hound cut flowers at ends of vineyard rows in preparation for the next exercise in culinary magic. As Intrepid Nomads, we knew we needed to move on to the next leg of our trip. We said our goodbyes to the lovely people who ran this unique place with feelings of thankfulness and regret that we were leaving an experience of what great travel can and should be, without a single tourist attraction in site. Magnifique!!

Video Artist of The Week -  Dave Brubeck - In my humble opinion, the greatest jazz pianist of all time. Take Five alone, a tune written and performed in 5/4 time is still considered to be one of the most groundbreaking compositions of all of time. I had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Brubeck and his Trio in 1969 and in 2007 at the age of 95. Mesmerizing! A true jazz genius.

Nomad Quote of The Week - “The best way to execute French cooking is to get good and loaded and whack the hell out of a chicken. Bon appétit. ” - Julia Child

Vous voyez en provence,

DLS
thenomadARCHITECT

Lolligaggin' In Provence - The Biggest Picasso I Ever Saw

Italy has Tuscany.  France has Provence.  Among other things, the enchantment of Provence gave rise to an account of two transplanted Brits who moved to a small village in The Luberon  region of Southeastern France.  A Year In Provence is a witty and heartfelt account of two expats and their dogs living in one of Europe's most intriguing places. Provence is a place where you can experience the eclectic nature and simplicity of country living and small towns where French/Provencal culture has been cultivated and maintained with unbridled and unapologetic passion. Today's post picks up where I left you after  a three day stay in the very cool, very funky hotel/B&B created by an architect and and artist in the heart of Provence in the City of Popes - Avignon (See Lumani - An eclectic oasis created by an architect and artist in the City of Popes-Magnifique!!  posted on 08/07/12).

No Planes Thank you - Just Trains & Automobiles

After riding on air from Paris to Avignon via high speed rail, we rented a car for our road trip through this beautiful region of France with human habitation dating back to prehistory. With typical cruising speeds in excess of 180 miles an hour, in comfortable, roomy seating compartments, you learn two things. One - train travel, at least in Europe, is by far, the superior way to get from anywhere to anywhere and Two - You hate Delta even more than you did before. Even though we would have preferred to travel everywhere by train, the reality of travel in the countryside requires a car. And, it provides flexibility to stop and see things that you stumble upon, especially in a country as rich in cultural must sees as Provence.

After saying our goodbyes to Jean, the architect, and Elisabeth, the artist we headed towards our next destination, La Bastide de Marie, a converted farm house in the heart of Provencal Wine Country. One of the great things about travel in Europe is its size. Because the countries are much smaller than the US, you can actually travel very short distances to experience vast changes in geography, culture and people. Since our hotel was only two hours from Avignon, we decided to take the slow road through the countryside and enjoy the place up close and personal. Just outside the village of Baux de Provence, we stumbled upon one of the most intriguing museums ever created. Now the French love their art. And this "museum" is proof positive that they can create places for art that defy the guidebooks. And our serendipitous discovery of this particular museum, located in the countryside of one of the most intriguing regions of Europe, proves what we are always saying on this blog. You simply must get off the beaten path to find those less well know places that inform and delight all restless Nomads.

Picasso and Copland Underground

As we rounded a curve heading into Les Baux de Provence, we came upon a small parking area with people milling about, apparently on their way to something. After stopping and inspecting the area further we discovered it. Cathedrale D'Images. This "Museum" was in the most unlikely of places. An abandoned limestone quarry. There in front of us was a former rock quarry that had been converted into one of the most unique presentations of art and music one will ever experience. As we paid the fee and entered this amazing place, you could here music filling the huge spaces left by years of quarrying stone. Everywhere we looked, multiple images were projected on virtually every floor, wall and ceiling surface.  All constantly changing in location, size and scope. Some of the massive "rooms" in this dark, cool place towered over sixty feet in height while extending over a hundred feet in length. Immersed in this unique subterranean collection of interconnecting spaces, the visual experience of a fifty foot high Picasso slowly changing to another painting or image, all to the accompaniment of classical music from Beethoven to Copland, was hypnotic.  As we pondered multiple images of masters of the art world in the darkness, guided only by the cast off light from projected images, we gained an entirely new appreciation for the meaning of art and its uplifting impact on us as people. Unfortunately, this unique contribution to the art world has closed, but knowing the French and their love of art, rest assured this closure will be temporary.

 

Even though we could have stayed forever in the Cathedrale D'Images, we had to leave to get to our destination for the evening. After stumbling upon this unique place of discovery, we both agreed that, while we loved The Louvre and its Mona Lisa, the French do, indeed, know how to take art appreciation, quite literally, to the next level.

You do not want to miss next week's post on our second destination in Provence, La Bastide de Marie, a converted farmhouse like no other with French cooking that will make you cry - and I mean that in a good way.

Video Artist of The Week - The Modern Jazz Quartet - One of the greatest jazz quartets ever. Old school modern jazz at its best. One critic has called them the perfect rhythm section with a vibe. This is music to sit back and enjoy with your best friends and the one you love.

Travel Quote of The Week - "Our architect, an expatriate Parisian, had warned us that building in Provence was very similar to trench warfare, with long periods of boredom interrupted by bursts of violent and noisy activity," - Peter Mayle from the book A Year In Provence.


A la prochaine,

DLS
thenomadARCHITECT

Presidents, Goodfellows & Maharishi Mahesh Yogi - Really?

This Place Isn't Strange Is It?

After a three minute conversation with the manager of The Blackstone Hotel just off Lake Michigan, I was assured that the hotel was everything that was described in various travel guides to Chicago. This included its history as a renown hotel for the rich and famous, movers and shakers and glitterati of the 20's, 30's, 40's, 50's, ad nauseam.  It also included my question concerning the final sentence in the description in one particular travel book, which stated that the upper floors were inhabited by The Transcendental Meditation Foundation, or at least a branch, founded by a really famous guy, the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, spiritual guru to the likes of John Lennon & The Fab Four. According to followers, Transcendental Meditation is "the march of the mind to its unbounded essence". I once knew a guy who practiced TM every day. Very strange. My direct question to the voice on the other end was - This place isn't weird is it? To which she replied - Oh no sir, the "TM" floors are completely separate from the lower floors of the hotel and, as you know, the hotel is one of the most famous in all of Chicago. Note to self - In the absence of overwhelming evidence that a particular hotel is not just old - If it was built in 1909 and at least seven presidents slept there -  run don't walk!

Keep in mind that this trip to Chicago was taken before the internet, or at least before Google, so one depended on travel books and other sources for hotel information. And, this Beaux Arts beauty has since been purchased, completely renovated and re-opened as a Marriott Renaissance Property in 2008. Presumably, things have improved. I'll let you know if I ever stay there. However, as to our visit, none of the travel books we used got the memo on The Blackstone. After the phone call with the very nice lady, I just kept telling myself and my wife - Presidents from Harding to JFK have stayed there. Monroe, Hepburn, Capone, Ike!! It must be good - right? Read on.

After a quick train ride on the 'L' from O'hare, we took a short cab ride from the train station to the famous and what was soon to be - infamous Blackstone Hotel. As we pulled up, the first thing I noticed was the torn awning in front of the vintage Beaux Arts facade. In addition, I saw a large contingent of high school kids with all manner of horns, drums and uniforms. My experience has been that when you combine a torn awning with a large contingent of teenagers, with band instruments, who are also guests, the hotel is probably not on any "Nomad's Places To Sleep Before You Die List". Nonetheless, we gathered our luggage and headed into the lobby. As we passed by a young woman dressed in white linen from head to toe, sitting barefoot on the grand staircase staring into space, I started to think that maybe the lady on the phone was not completely candid. Then, as we entered the lobby, it hit us.The heat!! The lobby was a balmy 78 degrees. But that was OK since, directly behind the front desk, there was a very, very large pedestal fan with wind speeds north of 20 mph to cool patron and staff alike.  As we checked in, I was beginning to get that sinking feeling that we were playing movie roles in a very dark comedy. It's funny to watch but not particularly humorous to actually be in the movie.

The Room, The Phantom & Joe Pesci

One of the many features listed in various travel books was the "complete" renovation of this 1909 grand dame of the privileged set of yesteryear. After check in, we stepped off the elevator into what appeared to be a wholly renovated space. New carpet, some new paint and air conditioning. The hot, humid lobby and the strange people hanging around started to fade into memory. However, as we quickly found out, the "renovation" stopped at the threshold of the door to our room. When the door opened , I could actually hear the soundtrack from Planes,Trains and Automobiles when Neal and Del checked into the El Rancho. Old floors, old rugs, very old bed and "vintage" bathroom fixtures. Interior design circa 1975 was the over arching theme. Motel Six with ten foot ceilings. After inspecting the room and the bathroom, I said to my wife - At least it's clean.

Since the hour was late, and we had dinner reservations and tickets to see The Phantom of The Opera that evening, we stashed our stuff and decided to clean up for the evening on the town. As I was sorting through my stuff, I heard my wife say - "Come here, you have to see this". As I walked into the bathroom, I discovered the real world meaning of "vintage" as rusty water flowed out of the faucet. However, rather than panic, we patiently waited for the water to clear up, which, thankfully, it did. As we were getting dressed, I decided to turn the TV on to see if we could get some info on the comings and goings in Chicago Land. There was a slight problem. I quickly discovered the volume knob did not work. And it was very, very loud. When I answered a knock at the door to find a sixteen year old tuba player politely asking me to turn the volume down, I had to explain to him that that was not possible. To be accommodating, I simply turned the violating box off and enjoyed the sounds of tubas, trumpets, clarinets, etc. wafting throughout the hotel. I think the entire band was on our floor. How special.

As we headed out to dinner and a fabulous production of Phantom, the travail of The Blackstone quickly faded. Upon returning after our night on the town, I told my wife I was going downstairs to rustle up a coke. This frozen in time hotel had no vending machines of any kind. However, I was in luck. The "diner" just off the lobby was still open or so I thought. As I walked up to the counter to order a coke, the man behind the counter said they were closed. Rats, I thought! I am really thirsty. Then out of the corner of my eye, I saw a small group of black leather jacket clad guys that could  only be described as Goodfellows. The "made guy" of the group, a Joe Pesci look-a-like, says to the bartender - Yo, Give da man his coke - no chaage! I said thanks, took my free coke and quickly returned to the room with the loud, now silenced TV and squeaky bed and finally fell asleep.

We Gotta Get Out Of This Place, If It's The Last Thing We Ever Do!

I awoke early, found the phone book and began perusing for alternate digs. There it was, glowing on the yellow page. A possible place of refuge. A short cab ride just around the corner - The Hyatt On Printer's Row. I quickly dialed the phone and presto! They did indeed have a room. We packed, checked out and said our goodbyes to The Blackstone  and Mr. Yogi and his minions. As we arrived and checked into our new, well designed and appointed home away for home, I was pleasantly surprised to find a small boutique hotel located in the heart of the big city. This very well detailed hotel did not disappoint and provided us a welcomed change from the previous night's stay at the ancient Blackstone. In the interest of full disclosure, The Hyatt On Printer's Row has since become a Wyndham property and, as such, I cannot vouch for its current status. Although the reviews I have read are quite good. As we enjoyed the rest of our stay in the greatest architectural city in America, Chicago became my favorite American City. We have been back many times to the stomping grounds of some of the world's greatest architects and some of the most stunning buildings in the world. The Art Institute of Chicago is a must see for art lovers and The Auditorium Theatre, the masterpiece designed by Dankmar Adlar and Louis Sullivan, is home to the world renown Joffrey Ballet. And if highbrow is not your cup of tea, check out the comedy troupe Second City. It will bring tears of uncontrollable laughter.

After three days in the big city at the very cool Hyatt On Printer's Row, we headed back to Florida with great memories we still laugh about today. As my travel companion - Susie, you remember Susie - is fond of saying - "Bad Beginnings, Good Endings". A woman of few, yet wise words, indeed!

Video Artist of The Week - Who better to represent Chicago than the rock band with horns - Chicago. After four decades and numerous personnel changes, this great band is still recording and touring. I wore out Chicago Transit Authority in college.

Travel Quote of The Week - I have struck a city- a real city- and they call it Chicago......I urgently desire never to see it again. It is inhabited by savages.  Rudyard Kipling  - Hmm - Must have stayed at the Blackstone!!



Till Next Time,


D.L. Stafford
thenomadARCHITECT